5344 TROUSERS WITH SLITS
YOU WILL NEED: elastic denim, iron-on interfacing; 1 zipper (20 cm); 2 buttons; cotton lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!
1. Side front – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Front inset – 2 pieces
4. Lower front – 2 pieces
5. Patch pocket – 1 piece
6. Flap – 2 pieces
7. Back – 2 pieces
8. Back inset – 2 pieces
9. Lower back – 2 pieces
10. Right front facing – 2 pieces
11. Left front facing – 2 pieces
12. Back facing – 2 pieces
13. Carrier – 1 piece
1. Front pocket bag – 2 pieces
Interfacing: front/back facings.
1. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the front/back facings.
2. Stitch the front insets to the front pieces. Press the joining seams toward the front. Topstitch them 0.5 cm away from the seams.
3. Stitch the lower front to the front pieces. Press the joining seams and topstitch them 0.5 cm away from the seams.
4. Pin the flap pieces right sides together and stitch leaving the top open. Turn the flap right side out through the open edge. Make decorative stitch 0.5 cm in from the edge. Neaten the top edge.
5. Make box pleats on the pocket and fix the pleat top/lower edges with stitch. Neaten the pocket outer contour and press it under according to the pattern. Topstitch the upper edge to the pocket right side; mark the pocket position on the trousers front piece; topstitch the pocket to the garment 0.2 cm in. Topstitch the flap along the marks; unfold the flap and topstitch it 0.5cm below the previously made seam.
6. With right sides together, overstitch the pocket entrance with the pocket facing. Understitch the pocket opening by stitching through the facing and the seam allowance near to the seam. Stitch the side front piece to the pocket facing around the inner edges. Neaten this seam. Stitch the pocket to the front at the side/waist edges.
7. Stitch the back inset to the garment back piece lower edge. Neaten the seam; press it to the back piece and topstitch 0.5 cm above.
8. Stitch the lower back to the back piece lower edge. Neaten the seam; press it and topstitch 0.5 cm above.
9. Neaten side/inside leg /centre edges of the garment. Stitch the side edges up to the slits. Press the seams open. Topstitch the slits around 0.5 cm away from the foldlines.
10. Stitch the inside leg seams; press them open. Stitch twice the crotch seam up to the zipper closure notch; stitch the side seams.
11. Press zipper closure allowance to the wrong side. Sew the zipper in with its teeth hidden.
12. Fold the carrier inside out in half lengthways and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm away from the edges. Turn it right side out and press.
13. Stitch the front/back facing side edges; press them open. Neaten the inner facing lower edge. With right sides together, stitch them along the waist edge. Understitch the seam.
14. Cut the carriers according to the size and topstitch them to the top facing upper edge. Stitch the top facings to the garment upper edge inserting the carriers. Overstitch the facing corners; trim the seam allowances on the corners. Turn the facing right side out; topstitch the neatened edge to the garment.
15. Neaten the hem. Press it to the wrong side. Stitch the hem in place.