5493 ¾ TROUSERS WITH CUFFS

 

YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric, fusing, 3 zippers, 5 buttons, lining.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Front part 2 pieces

2. Side pocket 2 pieces

3. Side flap 4 pieces

4. Pocket side 2 pieces

5. Back pocket facing 2 pieces

6. Back big sacking 1 piece

7. Back part 2 pieces

8. Small sacking 2 pieces

9. Big sacking 2 pieces

10. Button catch 1 piece

11. Cuff 2 pieces

12. Waistband 1 piece

Lining:

1. Back big sacking 1 piece

 

Fusing: waistband, flap, button catch.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband, flap, button catch.

 

2. Mark pocket place on back part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check back pocket place. Press facings along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line at pocket facings parallel to facing bend, to stitch it to. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket entrance to stitch pocket facings. Stitch facings to back part. Stop stitching at pocket marking parallel lines. Check if facings are correctly stitches (on wrong side, stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn facings wrong side out through this hole, check facing ends. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with double reverse stitches along corner base, Stitch pocket lining to facing allowance. Stitch pocket lining together and neaten it.

 

3. Mark side slit pocket on front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check pocket marking and pocket entrance line. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn pocket allowances into wrong side through this hole, check edges. Check pocket end on wrong side. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance with its teeth visible. Sew the zipper in and stitch pocket lining to zipper allowance. Stitch pocket lining and neaten the seam.

 

4. Neaten back/front part side edges. Stitch together and press seams apart.

 

5. Fold flap details right sides together and overstitch along outer contour. Turn the flap through upper open edge. Check seams and make decorative stitch at 0.2 cm from flap edge. Mark flap place on the garment. Neaten flap upper edge, stitch the flap to garment, turn it out and topstitch at 0.5 cm distance.

 

6. Mark patch side pocket place on the garment. Neaten side edge of pocket side. Stitch pocket side to pocket side/lower edges and neaten seams. Neaten pocket upper edge, fold it under and topstitch. Topstitch the pocket along marking folding facing edge under.

 

7. Neaten following edges: inside leg edge, middle front edge and flying front edge, as well as middle back edge.

 

8. Stitch inside leg seams and press them apart.

 

9. Stitch front edge to middle edge to closure notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam close to the seam joining front seam and middle seam.

 

10. Press closure one-piece facings into wrong side. Stitch the zipper under closure allowance left edge) along the edge. Stitch zipper free braid to right edge to one-piece facing. Fold button catch along the center and overstitch short lower edge. Neaten button catch long edge. Topstitch closure one-piece facing on left part button catch. Topstitch slit right edge catching facings.

 

11. Fold belt loop along the center its wrong side out, make edges equal and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Then turn it right side out, placing the seam on bending or making the edging of 0.1-0.2 cm into wrong side, and press t.

 

12. Neaten waistband lower edge. Press the waistband along the center right side out.

 

13. Cut belt loops according to size and stitch them to upper waistbands lower edge. Stitch the waistband to upper edge and overstitch waistband corners. Topstitch neatened edge on the seam joining waistband. Topstitch belt loop free ends on waistband upper edge.

 

14. Press cuffs along the center wrong side in. Stitch unfolded cuff side edges and press apart. Press unfolded cuff side edges and press them apart. Press cuff hem. Stitch cuffs to leg lower edges. Neaten the seam and press it under.

 

15. Make a buttonhole into waistband right edge and sew the button on left one. Make buttonholes into patch side pocket flap. Sew buttons on patch side pocket.