6003 TROUSERS

 

YOU NEED: wool/semiwool; cotton lining of 70 cm length and 90 cm width; fusing of 60 cm length and 140 cm width; the piping width fast edges (1 m length and 1.5 cm width); zipper of 20 cm length; 1 button of 15 mm diameter; 1 metal hook.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Right valance – 2 pieces

4. Left valance – 1 piece

5. Back valance (rectangle of 13x2 cm) – 4 pieces

6. Back facing (rectangle of 15x4 cm) – 2 pieces

7. Pocket entrance facing – 2 pieces

8. Front side – 2 pieces

9. Belt loop (rectangle of 48x2 cm) – 1 piece

10. Waistband (rectangle of 48x8 cm) – 2 pieces

 

Lining:

1. Side with sacking – 2 pieces

2. Right valance – 1 piece

3. Back sacking – 4 pieces

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the facing to wrong side of the waistband.

 

2. Lay pocket entrance facing’s/side part’s wrong side on front sacking’s right side according to marks, tack along edges and stitch with narrow zig zag along lowr contours.

 

3. Stitch sackings to front/back parts according to marks and press allowances towards sackings. Coincide edges and stitch side edges and pocket’s contour. Make 0.5 cm fixing topstitch along pocket entrance (on right side). Neaten allowances; tack sacking to waist edge.

 

4. Stitch back darts and press them sideward.

 

5. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into back parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay cotton sacking on lower facings. Lay the flap folded upward on upper facing and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn the sacking into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Topstitch facing’s free edges on sackings with zig zag stitches. Fold both sackings equal and stitch along the contour. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles; tack sacking’s edges to waist edge.

 

6. Stitch side seams/inseams.

 

7. Stitch middle front seam up to the closure.

 

8. Overstitch right valance, turn it right side out and press.

 

9. Lay left valance on closure’s correspondent edge right sides together, then stitch along the edge. Press valance allowances and make fixing stitch; press the valance into garment’s wrong side. Pin the zipper (folded sideward) on closure’s right edge; fold the valance right side out and lay it above coinciding edges; stitch all layers together. Make fixing stitch along zipper’s edge. Stitch zipper’s another side to left valance. Neaten allowances and stitch left valance on the garment. Make fixing zig zag stitch along valances’ lower edges (wrong side).

 

10. Overstitch belt loop detail, turn it right side out, press and cut into 6 pieces.

 

11. Pin belt loops folded downwards on trousers’ waist edge.

 

12. Overstitch 4-cm ejecting waistband’s left end (closure) and stitch short edge of waistband’s right end.

 

13. Stitch each waistband with one side on corresponding waist edge.

 

14. Overstitch waistband’s inner edge with piping.

 

15. Stitch back part/waistband back seam.

 

16. Fold the waistband and sew waistband’s inner side under with blind stitches.

 

17. Fold belt loops upwards, fold edges under and stitch on the waistband.

 

18. Neaten hems, press them under and sew with blind stitches.

 

19. Make buttonholes into waistband’s left end, sew the button on right one.

 

20. Set the hook close to zipper’s base.