6004 TROUSERS WITH PATCH POCKETS

 

YOU NEED: denim/gabardine; white cotton of 40 cm length and 140 cm width; fusing of 10 cm length and 1140 width; zipper of 20 cm length; shank button of 22 mm diameter.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Button catch – 1 piece

4. Back pocket’s flap – 4 pieces

5. Patch pocket’s flap – 4 pieces

6. Side part – 2 pieces

7. Back valance – 2 pieces

8. Front patch pocket – 2 pieces

9. Belt loop – 1 piece

10. Right waistband – 1 piece

11. Left waistband – 1 piece

12. Back facing – 4 pieces

White cotton:

1. Back sacking – 2 pieces

2. Front sacking – 2 pieces

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

NB: stitch decorative stitching with white thread.

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband’s half.

 

2. Make a pleat into wrong part, stitch it, press and tack to waistline.

 

3. Lay side part’s wrong side on sacking’s right side, fold inner edge under and stitch along the edge. Tack side part to sacking along open edges.

 

4. Lay the sacking on the garment right sides together and stitch along pocket entrance, turn right side out, press and make double decorative topstitching.

 

5. Press the sacking along the center wrong side out and stitch along lower edges. Tack the sacking to trousers’ waist edge.

 

6. Stitch back darts and press them.

 

7. Lay flaps right sides together, stitch along outer edges, turn details right side out and make decorative stitch at 5 cm from edges.

 

8. Lay corresponding valance’s wrong side on back sacking’s right side, fold inner edges under and stitch along the edge. Tack the valance to sacking along open edges.

 

9. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into back parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay cotton sacking on lower facings. Lay the flap folded upward on upper facing and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn the sacking into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Fold the facing double and topstitch upper edge on upper facing’s allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.

 

10. Stitch side seams with overlap seams.

 

11. Make pleats into patch pocket, press it in given direction and make decorative topstitching at 3 mm from bendings.

 

12. Press pocket’s upper edge into wrong side, fold the edge under and stitch along edge.

 

13. Press patch pocket’s outer edges inside and stitch the pocket on the garment with double stitch.

 

14. Stitch patch pocket’s upfolded flap on trousers’ right side. Fold the flap down, press and topstitch with double stitch.

 

15. Stitch front middle seam (to the closure)/back middle seam with overlap stitch pressing allowances leftwards.

 

16. Lay left valance on closure’s correspondent edge right sides together, then stitch along the edge. Press valance allowances and make fixing stitch; press the valance into garment’s wrong side. Pin the zipper (folded sideward) on closure’s right edge; fold the valance right side out and lay it above coinciding edges; stitch all layers together. Make fixing stitch along zipper’s edge. Stitch zipper’s another side to left valance. Neaten allowances and stitch left valance on the garment. Make fixing zig zag stitch along valances’ lower edges (wrong side) to stitch zipper’s left edge with double stitch; make decorative stitch of 7 mm along closure edge.

 

17. Stitch inseams and neaten allowances.

 

18. Stitch waistbands. Fold waistband along the center wrong side out and overstitch ends; turn the details right side out and press it. Stitch downfolded waistband with its reinforced edge to right side of garment’s waist. Press waistband’s open edge inside and stitch to the trousers; continue decorative topstitching along waistband’s perimeter.

 

19. Neaten belt loop’s long edges, press into wrong side and stitch with double stitching. Cut the belt loop into five pieces.

 

20. Fold belt loops’ open edges and topstitch on the waistband.

 

21. Press hems into wrong side, fold edges under and stitch along edges.

 

22. Make buttonhole into waistband’s left end; set the button.