YOU NEED: wool fabric suitable for coats; lining; fusing of 40 cm length and 140 cm width; 4 buttons of 25 mm diameter.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
1. Back part – 1 folded piece
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Yoke – 1 piece
4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Outer sleeve – 1 folded piece
7. Valance – 2 pieces
8. Facing – 2 pieces
9. Inner collar – 1 folded piece
1. Back part (+1 cm along middle ling for free-fitting pleat
2. Front part (excluding front bands)
3. Sleeve’s both parts
The lining is 2 cm shorter than fabric garment.
Fusing: outer collar and facings.
NB: if you have check fabric, take into account when pinning patterns on the fabric how checks will coincide along seams.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer collar and facings.
2. Lay valance’s wrong side on inner sacking’s right side, fold lower edge under and stitch along the edge. Tack the valance to the sacking along other edges.
3. Pin the facing and sacking (both downfolded) on the marking on garment’s right side. Pin upfolded sacking with valance and stitch them 5 mm distance along both sides of marking. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Topstitch facing’s free edge with zig zags on corresponding sacking. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch along contour. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.
4. Stitch yoke to back part right sides together; turn right side out, press allowances towards the yoke and make 5 mm decorative stitch.
5. Do the same for shoulder seams.
6. Stitch upper sleeve to lower sleeve. Press allowances upwards and make 5 mm decorative topstitching.
7. Press sleeve cap and stitch sleeves into armholes coinciding control marks.
8. Lay outer collar on inner one right sides together, stitch along outer edges; turn right side out, press and make 5 mm decorative stitch. Tack collars along open edges.
9. Lay downfolded collar on right side of the jacket coinciding control marks and shoulder seams, then tack.
10. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabrics’ and stitch front bands.
11. Lay the lining and the garment right sides together and stitch them together along neckline (stitching the collar), front edgings and hems. Turn the garment right side out and press.
12. Stitch sleeve hems into wrong side and stitch along edges.
13. Fold lining sleeve’s hem into wrong side and sew to fabric sleeve’s hem with blind stitches.
14. Press jacket’s hem into wrong side and stitch along edge.
15. Make buttonholes into left front edging.
16. Sew buttons.