YOU NEED: wool/semiwool; artificial fur of 160 cm length and 140 cm width; black padded lining of 80 cm length and 140 cm width; black cotton lining of 30 cm length and 140 cm width; satin piping of 4 m length and 2.5 cm width; separating zip (length depends on your size).
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
1. Back part – 1 folded piece
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Outer collar – 1 folded piece
5. Valance – 2 pieces
6. Facing (rectangle of 17x4 cm) – 2 pieces
7. Inner collar – 1 folded piece
8. Sacking – 4 pieces
9. Back part – 1 folded piece
10. Front part – 2 pieces
11. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Use to cut the lining:
Back/front parts, sleeves are 2 cm shorter that fabric details.
Fusing: outer collar and facings.
NB: if you have check fabric, take into account when pinning patterns on the fabric how checks will coincide along seams.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer collar and facings.
2. Lay valance’s wrong side on inner sacking’s right side, fold lower edge under and stitch along the edge. Tack the valance to the sacking along other edges.
3. Pin the facing and sacking (both downfolded) on the marking on garment’s right side. Pin upfolded sacking with valance and stitch them 5 mm distance along both sides of marking. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 2-cm facings. Topstitch facing’s free edge with zig zags on corresponding sacking. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch along contour. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.
4. Stitch side/shoulder seams.
5. Stitch sleeve seam.
6. Press sleeve cap and stitch sleeves into armholes coinciding control marks.
7. Lay outer collar on inner one right sides together, stitch along outer edges; turn right side out, press and make 7 mm decorative stitch. Tack collars along open edges.
8. Lay downfolded collar on right side of the jacket coinciding control marks and shoulder seams, then tack.
9. Open the zipper. Press front edging’s allowance into wrong side, lay zipper braid under coinciding teeth and front edging’s bending, then stitch the zipper.
10. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabrics’ and trim the hem and lining front edgings with the piping: lay the piping on the garment right sides together, coincide along edges, and stitch at the distance of ¼ of piping width. Round garment’s edge with the piping, fold the rest of piping (1/4 of piping width) and topstitch along the bending coinciding with the seam stitches before.
11. Lay the lining and the garment right sides together and stitch them together along neckline (stitching the collar), front edgings and hems. Turn the garment right side out and press.
12. Sew lining front edging to zipper braids with blind stitches.
13. Press sleeve hems into wrong side and stitch along edges.
14. Fold lining sleeve hem under and sew to fabric sleeve hem with blind stitches.
15. Press jacket hem into wrong side and stitch along the edge.
16. Sew lining hem to fabric hem with blind stitch.