6009 ONE-BREASTED COAT

 

YOU NEED: wool/semiwool fabrics suitable for coats; felt of 20 cm length and 90 cm width; lining; fusing; warmer of 80 cm length and 8 cm width; 3 buttons of 25 mm diameter; 8 buttons of 12 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Flap – 2 pieces

6. Front band – 2 pieces

7. Facing (rectangle of 17.5x4 cm) – 4 pieces

8. Sacking (rectangle of 17.5x19 cm) – 2 pieces

9. Outer collar – 1 piece

10. Stand-up collar – 1 piece

 

Felt:

1. Inner collar – 1 piece

 

Lining:

1. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit pleat);

2. Front part excluding front bands;

3. Both sleeves without slit facing;

4. Flaps and sackings – without changes;

Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric one.

 

Fusing: front part, marked segment of front bands and hem/sleeve hems allowances.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front part, marked segment of front bands and hem/sleeve hems allowances.

 

2. Stitch front darts and press them apart.

 

3. Overstitch flaps with the lining, turn them right side out and press.

 

4. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into front parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.

 

5. Stitch back part along middle seam up to the vent.

 

6. Stitch side/shoulder seams.

 

7. Press allowances apart.

 

8. Fold left back part vent’s allowance into right side and stitch along hem line. Then turn right side out. Fold right back part’s hem into right side and stitch along vent allowance’s edge, then turn right side out.

 

9. Fold the vent leftward and fix vent’s top with diagonal stitch.

 

10. Stitch stand-up to outer collar and press allowance apart.

 

11. Stretch the felt with hot iron (with wet gauze) to give the felt the form of outer collar joint with stand-up.

 

12. Lay inner collar’s upper edge with its wrong side on right side of outer collar’s upper edge and stitch with narrow zig zags. Lay outer collar on inner one right sides together, stitch them along ends, turn right side out and press the detail.

 

13. Stitch front bands to outer collar and press allowances upwards.

 

14. Lay front bands joint with outer collar on the garment right sides together, adjust edges and overstitch front edgings and the collar. Then turn right side out and press.

 

15. Press sleeve’s upper part together and stitch upper sleeve to elbow part down to slit mark. Press allowances apart and turn the sleeve right side out. Fold slit allowances and hem allowance into right side, stitch the corner diagonally, cut extra fabric at 1 cm from the seam and press allowances apart. Press allowances into wrong side, sew with cross stitches and overlap the slit.

 

16. Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Stitch sleeve seam and press allowances apart. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

17. Cut the warmer into equal parts and sew it to sleeve caps’ wrong sides.

 

18. Press the hem into wrong side and sew with blind stitches.

 

19. Sew shoulder pads.

 

20. Stitch lining back part along middle seam.

 

21. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.

 

22. Make buttonholes into left front edging, sew buttons.

 

23. Make buttonholes into sleeves (do not cut the fabric) and fix sleeve slits with buttons.