6012 JACKET

 

YOU NEED: wool/mixed fabric/leather; lining; fusing of 150 cm length and 140 cm width, cotton of 45 cm length and 140 cm width; 8 leather mould buttons of 22 mm diameter; 4 leather mould buttons of 18 mm diameter; separable zip with double loch of 64 cm length.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Outer collar – 1 folded piece

2. Inner collar – 1 folded piece

3. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces

4. Small off-set welt – 2 pieces

5. Yoke – 1 folded piece

6. Flap – 4 pieces

6. Patch pocket – 2 pieces

7. Pocket side – 2 pieces

8. Left closure placket – 2 pieces

9. Right closure placket – 2 pieces

10. Front part – 2 pieces

11. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

13. Back part – 1 folded piece

14. Cuff – 4 pieces

15. Sleeve facing – 2 pieces

 

Cotton:

1. Small sacking – 4 pieces

2. Patch pocket lining – 4 pieces

 

Lining:

1. Back/front parts without changes-2 cm along hems;

2. Both sleeves-3 cm along sleeve hems;

3. Small sacking without changes.

 

Fusing: outer/inner collars, pocket, right edging placket, left closure placket, hem/sleeve hems, small off-set welt’s half width, flaps and stand-up collar.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer/inner collars, pocket, right edging placket, left closure placket, hem/sleeve hems, small off-set welt’s half width, flaps and stand-up collar.

 

2. Fold pocket side along the center wrong side and make a stitch at 2.5 mm from bending.

 

3. Stitch one of pocket sides to pocket side/lower right sides together (leave pocket upper edge’s hem ejecting); press pocket side into wrong side and make decorative stitch along the edge.

 

4. Stitch lining details right sides together along inner/lower edges.

 

5. Stitch upper edge of one of pocket lining parts to pocket upper edge right sides together; turn right side out, press and make 1.5 cm decorative stitch.

 

6. Lay the pocket joint with the lining on front part, fold upper part of lining’s inner side/pocket sides under and topstitch on front part along edges.

 

7. Press the pocket folding pocket side into wrong side.

 

8. Lay flaps right sides together and stitch along outer edges; turn right side out, press and make 1 cm decorative stitch.

 

9. Stitch upturned flap to front part, cut allowances to 5 mm. Press the flap downward and make 1 cm fixing stitch.

 

10. Both front parts: Bend off-set welt along the center wrong side out, overstitch short edges, turn it right side out and press. Make 1 cm decorative stitch along bending (stitch goes diagonally toward welt’s corner). Pin downfolded off-set welt on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Topstitch welt’s free edge on the sacking with zig zags. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together along the contour. On right side: stitch welt’s ends on the garment.  Stitch additionally welt’s short edges to the garment with 1 cm decorative stitch.

 

11. Stitch yoke to back part right sides together; turn them right side out, press allowances toward the yoke and make 1 cm decorative stitch.

 

12. Do the same for front yoke and front part.

 

13. Stitch wide seams, press allowances backward and make 5 mm decorative stitch.

 

14. Stitch upper sleeve to elbow part to slit mark, neaten, then press allowances upwards. Make 1 cm decorative stitch, press allowances apart below the slit.

 

15. Pin slit allowance’s right side to sleeve’s wrong side and stitch along edges. Stitch open edge with machine hem stitch. Slash allowances at slit base and fold half of facing width into right side. Fold facing open edges under and topstitch on the sleeve along edge.

 

16. Stitch sleeve lower seam.

 

17. Stitch sleeves into armholes coinciding marks, neaten allowances, press them toward armholes and make 1 cm decorative stitch.

 

18. Lay cuffs right sides together, stitch short edges and turn details right side out. Stitch reinforced cuff to sleeve hem right sides together; press cuff’s open edge under and topstitch on the garment along the previous seam; continue 5-mm decorative stitching along cuff’s perimeter.

 

19. Stitch left closure plackets together along rounded/lower edges. Turn the detail right side out, press it and make 1 cm decorative stitch.

 

20. Do the same for right front facing.

 

21. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric one’s excluding decorative stitches. Fold lining hem into under and tack it.

 

22. Stitch the stand-up to outer collar, press allowances toward the stand-up and make decorative stitch. Stitch another stand-up to inner collar in the same way.

 

23. Stitch inner collar joint with stand-up into fabric neckline. Stitch outer collar into lining neckline.

 

24. Open the zipper. Pin right zipper (teeth toward side seam) on right side of right front band. Lay right front facing (bending toward side seam) above and tack all layers.

 

25. Pin left zipper on the left front edging.

 

26. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together coinciding edges, fold hem allowance to the lining and stitch the collar front edgings stitching the zipper and right front facing; then turn right side out and press.

 

27. Sew outer collar’s lower edge to garment neckline.

 

28. Press fabric hem into wrong side and stitch along edge; sew lining hem to fabric hem with blind stitches making horizontal lapping pleat.

 

29. Stitch closure placket (turned to side seam) to right side of left front part, cut allowances to 5 mm. Press closure placket frontward and make 1 cm decorative stitch.

 

30. Sew lining sleeve hem to fabric sleeve hem with blind stitches.

 

31. Make buttonholes into closure placket, flaps, sleeve stripes and collar closure according to marks.

 

32. Sew buttons of 18 mm diameter on sleeves and buttons of 22 mm diameter on front part and pockets.