6098 JACKET WITH RAGLAN SLEEVES
YOU NEED: whipcord; lining (jersey, fleece); warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar’s height); trimming cord; elastic braids of 3 cm cuffs; elastic braid for jacket’s hem; 2 holder for cord; 4 metal blocks.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems of upper part; 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Center back part – 1 piece
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Sleeve center part – 2 pieces
6. Sleeve side part – 4 pieces
7. Collar – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Cut bias 2 fabric stripes of 3.5 cm width for trimming. Stripes’ length depend on trimming’s length.
NB! After trimming is ready, there must remain seam allowance of 1 cm. Otherwise, one must regulate width of cut stripes self.
10. Front part – 2 pieces
11. Back part – 1 piece
12. Sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Sacking – 4 pieces
Topstitch the warmer along contour of outer collar details cut of warmer (1 piece) and waistband placket.
1. Stitch stripes together, press seams. Fold ready stripe along the center, insert the cord and make a stitch along cord contour’s.
2. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, fold it along the center and overstitch along side edges. Turn it right side out, press it and topstitch. Topstitch the trimming on welt’s right side; topstitch sackings on side front part. Lay the welt front part right sides together; then lay the sacking on and topstitch along pocket entrance (with one stitch). Turn right side out, press, them topstitch pocket entrance. Stitch sackings’ edges. Stitch side front parts to center front parts. Topstitch the seam. Make fixings at pocket entrance, stitch off-set welts on side front part. Sackings’ edges must enter into seam joining the zipper and reach the hem.
3. Stitch side parts to back part inserting trimming. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch sleeve side edges to center ones inserting trimming. Stitch sleeves to front/back parts. Topstitch seams joining sleeves along sleeve caps. Stitch side seams with sleeve seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline.
4. Press inner edge of front band into wrong side and topstitch front band on front part’s lining. Stitch lining parts together. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.
5. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
6. Set blocks into jacket hem. Press jacket/sleeve hems first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm under. Topstitch jacket/sleeve hems leaving a hole for elastic braid. Insert elastic braid into sleeve hems.
7. Topstitch edgings and the collar.
8. Press ready jacket.
9. Pull the cord into jacket hem (wrong side).