6105 WARM JACKET
YOU NEED: whipcord; lining; warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar’s height); elastic braids of 4.5 cm cuffs; Velcro.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for upper part’s lower allowance; 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches to hem line); 0.8 c, for overstitching.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Center back part – 1 piece
3. Back yoke – 1 piece
4. Front yoke – 2 pieces
5. Front placket – 4 pieces
6. Side front part – 2 pieces
7. Side back part – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve center part – 2 pieces
9. Slower sleeve – 4 pieces
10. Outer collar – 1 piece
11. Inner collar – 1 piece
12. Outer collar’s placket – 1 piece
13. Cuff – 2 piece
14. Cuff’s placket – 2 pieces
15. Sleeve half-belt – 2 pieces
16. Windproof placket – 2 pieces
17. Front band – 2 pieces
18. Back facing – 1 piece
19. Inside pocket’s off-set welt – 1 piece
20. Front part – 2 pieces
21. Back part – 1 piece
22. Sleeve – 2 pieces
23. Inside pocket’s small pocket – 1 piece
24. Inside pocket’s large sacking – 1 piece
25. Lower pocket’s sacking – 4 pieces
Topstitch the warmer along contour of back/front parts, closure/outer collar placket (topstitch outer collar after collar’s placket is stitched).
1. Overstitch front placket along one side. Turn it right side out, press and topstitch. Stitch sackings to side front part. Lay front placket on center front part, right sides together, then lay the sacking on pocket entrance and topstitch with one stitch. Stitch side front parts to center front parts inserting front placket and stitching pocket sackings together. Topstitch the seam. Make fixes at pocket entrance.
2. Stitch side parts to back part inserting trimming. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch yokes to back/front parts, then topstitch. Stitch lower sleeves to center ones, then topstitch. Stitch shoulder edges. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch sleeves into open armholes. Topstitch seams joining sleeves along armholes. Stitch side seams with sleeve seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline.
3. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Mark a line determining ready welt’s width on the welt. Topstitch small sacking on welt’s inner side. Lay the welt with sacking on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with right side of side front part. Stitch the welt. Stitch large pocket to pocket’s upper marking. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket marking’s corners. Pocket’s another edge enters the seam joining front band. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch sackings’ edges fixing pocket’s corner at one side.
4. Stitch front band to jacket lining. Stitch lining details together. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.
5. Set elastic braid into cuffs and make decorative stitches. Apply fusing to wrong side of sleeve half-belt and cuff placket. Topstitch Velcro pieces on half-belt and on cuff placket according to marking. Overstitch sleeve half-belt. Overstitch cuffs with cuff plackets inserting half-belts into seams. Stitch cuffs to sleeves catching elastic braid’s edge with seams.
6. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
7. Stitch the lining to cuffs.
8. Press the hem first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm under. Topstitch the hem.
9. Topstitch edgings and the collar.
10. Topstitch Velcro on windproof placket’s wrong side. Overstitch windproof placket, turn it right side out, press and topstitch along the contour. Topstitch it on left front part according marks. Topstitch Velcro on right front part.
11. Press ready jacket.