6112 WAISTCOAT WITH HOOD
YOU NEED: whipcord;
lining; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including
stand-up collar’s height); 2 zippers (depending on pocket’s length); elastic
braid; 4 holders for cord; 4 metallic blocks.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for upper part’s lower
edges, 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2
pieces
2. Back part – 1
piece
3. Side front part –
2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2
pieces
5. Hood – 2 pieces
6. Hood center part –
1 piece
7. Large sacking – 2
pieces
8. Hood facing – 1
piece
Lining:
9. Front part – 2
pieces
10. Back part – 1
piece
11. Small sacking – 2
pieces
12. Hood – 2 pieces
13. Hood center part
– 1 piece
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of pocket place on front part. Stitch side part to front part, excepting pocket entrance. Slash allowances into corners. Press the seam towards front part, press pocket entrance apart. Stitch the zipper with small sacking to front part. Stitch zipper’s another part with large sacking to side front part. Stitch sackings together. Make fixings along pocket entrance and make decorative stitch. Sackings’ edges must entrance the seam joining the zipper and reach garment hem.
2. Stitch side parts to back part. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch shoulder edges together. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch side seams. Stitch hood parts together. .
3. Topstitch the hood
along hood center part. Stitch the hood into neckline. Set blocks into the
hood.
4. Stitch waistcoat lining. Stitch hood lining together and stitch it to hood facing. Stitch hood lining into lining neckline.
5. Lay a part of zipper on edging right sides together (teeth are from edging). Overstitch edging and hood edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
6. Overstitch
armholes with lining, then topstitch.
7. Make loops for the
cord into hem allowance. Press hem allowance under (first at 1 cm, them at 3.5
cm). Topstitch garment hem.
8. Topstitch edgings
and hood.
9. Topstitch ready
waistcoat.
10. Pull the elastic
braid into the hood and garment hem.