YOU NEED: whipcord; lining (may be fleece); warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including height of stand-up collar); trimming cord; elastic braid for garment hem; cord holders.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for upper part’s lower edges, 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 1 piece
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Collar – 2 pieces
6. Large sacking – 2 pieces
7. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Cut fabric bias stripes of 3.5 cm width to make trimming piping of. Stripes’ length depends on trimming length.
NB! After the trimming is ready, seam allowance must be 1 cm. Otherwise, you have to adjust stripes’ width yourself.
8. Front part – 2 pieces
9. Back part – 1 piece
10. Small sacking – 2 pieces
Stitch the warmer to back/front part and outer collar along the contour (stitch warmer to back/front parts after side parts are stitched to).
1. Stitch stripes together, press seams. Fold the stripe along the center, insert the cord and make a stitch along cord contour.
2. Apply the fusing to wrong side of the welt, press the welt along the center. Lay the fusing reinforcement under pocket place. Mark a line on the welt determining ready welt’s width. Topstitch small sacking on welt’s wrong side. Lay the welt with sacking on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking and the line on the welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with front part’s right side. Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines making diagonal slashes towards corners of pocket marking. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper to front part on right side, 0.1 cm from pocket entrance. Stitch small sacking to zipper’s lower braid and fold it downwards. Stitch large sacking to zipper’s upper braid. Sacking edges must enter the seam joining the zipper and reach the hem.
3. Stitch side parts to front/back parts inserting the trimming. Topstitch joining seams along details of dark fabric. Stitch shoulder edges. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch side seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline.
4. Stitch lining details. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.
5. Lay zipper’s part on edging right sides together (teeth are outwards edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper (placket is on left front part).
6. Overstitch armholes with lining ad topstitch them.
7. Make loops for he cord into hem allowance. Press hem allowance first at 1 cm, then at 3.5 cm. Topstitch hem allowance.
8. Topstitch edgings and collar.
9. Press ready waistcoat.
10. Pull elastic braid for holders into garment hem’s wrong side.