YOU NEED: whipcord; lining; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar’s height); 2 zippers (depending on pockets length); elastic braid of 4.5 cm width for cuffs; elastic cord for the hood; 2 holders for the cord; 2 metallic locks; Velcro.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for upper part’s lower allowance; 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 1 piece
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Sleeve side part – 4 pieces
8. Sleeve insert – 2 pieces
9. Hood – 2 pieces
10. Hood enter part – 1 piece
11. Hood facing – 1 piece
12. Cuff – 2 pieces
13. Cuff placket – 2 pieces
14. Sleeve half-belt – 2 pieces
15. Front band – 2 pieces
16. Large sacking – 2 pieces
17. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
18. Front part – 2 pieces
19. Back part – 1 piece
20. Sleeve – 2 pieces
21. Side font part – 2 pieces
22. Small sacking – 2 pieces
23. Hood – 2 pieces
24. Hood center part – 1 piece
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Apply the fusing to pocket place. Mark a line determining ready welt’s width on the welt. Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with right side of side front part. Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket marking’s corners. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper at 0.1 cm from pocket entrance on front part’s right side. Stitch small sacking to zipper’s lower braid, then fold it under. Stitch large sacking to zipper’s upper braid. Stitch sackings’ edges. Sackings’ edges must enter into seam joining the zipper and reach the hem.
2. Stitch side part to front/back parts coinciding front control marks for slit processing. Slack slit allowance at side front part. Stitch sleeve inserts to upper sleeves. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch sleeve side parts to sleeve center parts. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch shoulder edges. Topstitch shoulder seam along back part. Stitch sleeves into open armholes. Topstitch seams joining sleeves along armholes. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch hood parts together. Topstitch the hood along its center piece. Stitch the hood into neckline. Set blocks into the hood.
3. Press inner edge of front band into wrong side and topstitch front band on front part’s lining. Stitch jacket’s lining coinciding control marks for slit processing. Slash slit allowance. Stitch sleeves into open armholes. Stitch lining parts and hood parts together, them join it with hood facing. Stitch hood lining into lining neckline.
4. Set elastic braid into cuffs and make decorative stitches. Apply the fusing to half-belt and cuff placket. Topstitch the Velcro according to marks on sleeve half-belt and cuff placket. Overstitch the half-belt. Overstitch cuffs with cuff plackets inserting half-belts. Stitch cuffs to sleeves, setting elastic braids’ edge into the seam.
5. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
6. Stitch the lining to cuffs.
7. Overstitch slits with lining.
8. Press the hem first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm under. Topstitch the hem.
9. Topstitch edgings and the hood.
10. Press ready jacket.
11. Pull the cord into the hood.