6119 SHORTS WITH YOKE (FOR MEN)

 

YOU NEED: whipcord; fusing; 2 zippers (depending on pockets length); elastic braid of 4.5 cm width for waistband; trimming cord; cord for waistband; Velcro.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 5 cm for garment hems.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Front part 2 pieces

2. Back part 2 pieces

3. Yoke 2 pieces

4. Waistband 1 piece

5. Large sacking 2 pieces

6. Small sacking 2 pieces

7. Off-set welt 2 pieces

8. Back pockets sacking 2 pieces

 

Cut bias 2 fabric stripes of 3.5 cm width for trimming. Stripes length depends on trimmings length.

NB! After trimming is ready, there must remain seam allowance of 1 cm. Otherwise, one must regulate width of cut stripes self.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Stitch stripes together, press seams. Fold ready stripe along the center, insert the cord and make a stitch along cord contours.

 

2. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Apply the fusing to pocket place. Mark a line determining ready welts width on the welt. Topstitch the trimming on welts outer side (welts outer side coincides with front parts right side). Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket markings corners. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper at 0.1 cm from pocket entrance on front parts right side. Stitch small sacking to zippers lower braid, then fold it under. Stitch large sacking to zippers upper braid. Stitch sackings edges. Sackings edges must enter into seam joining the waistband.

 

3. Stitch yokes. Stitch sacking to right yoke making the trimming. Stitch the sacking to right back part, turn it right side out, press, them topstitch Velcro. Stitch back parts together. Stitch sackings together. Stitch yokes to back parts. Make fixes along pocket entrance. Topstitch middle seam along left part.

 

4. Press hems first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm under. Stitch side seams to slit mark, then topstitch. Stitch front middle seams. Topstitch along left part. Stitch inside leg seams.

 

5. Mark lines of topstitching the elastic braid at waistband. Pierce 2 holes (at 8 cm distance) for cord between topstitchings at front parts middle seam level. Stitch separately waistband and elastic braid in ring. Insert elastic braid into waistband, stretch the braid to waistbands length and make 2 decorative stitches. Stitch the waistband to trousers catching elastic braid.

 

6. Fold hem allowance into right side and stitch to slit edges. Turn allowance into wrong side and topstitch at hem allowances.

 

7. Topstitch ready shorts.

 

8. Pull the cord into waistband.