6121 JACKET WITH YOKE

 

YOU NEED: whipcord; lining (jersey, fleece); warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar length); 2 zipper (depending on pocket length); trimming cord; elastic braid of 5.5 cm width for waistband; elastic braid of 4.5 cm for cuffs.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Front part 2 pieces

2. Back part 1 piece

3. Back yoke 1 piece

4. Front yoke 2 pieces

5. Side part 4 pieces

6. Sleeve center part 2 pieces

7. Sleeve side part 4 pieces

8. Collar 2 pieces

9. Cuff 2 pieces

10. Front band 2 pieces

11. Waistband 1 piece

12. Waistband placket 2 pieces

13. Large sacking 2 pieces

14. Small sacking 2 pieces

15. Off-set welt 2 pieces

 

Cut bias 2 fabric stripes of 3.5 cm width for trimming. Stripes length depends on trimmings length.

NB! After trimming is ready, there must remain seam allowance of 1 cm. Otherwise, one must regulate width of cut stripes self.

 

Lining:

16. Front part 2 pieces

17. Back part 1 piece

18. Sleeve 2 pieces

 

Warmer:

Topstitch the warmer along contour of outer collar details cut of warmer (1 piece) and waistband placket.

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Apply the fusing to pocket place. Mark a line determining ready welts width on the welt. Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welts outer side must coincide with right side of side front part. Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket markings corners. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper at 0.1 cm from pocket entrance on front parts right side. Stitch small sacking to zippers lower braid, then fold it under. Stitch large sacking to zippers upper braid. Stitch sackings edges. Sackings edges must enter into seam joining the zipper and the seam joining the waistband.

 

2. Stitch stripes together, press seams. Fold ready stripe along the center, insert the cord and make a stitch along cord contours.

 

3. Stitch side parts to back part and to font parts. Stitch sleeve side parts to side back/front parts along armholes. Stitch shoulder edges together. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch sleeves/yoke center parts together. Stitch the yoke to back/front parts joining sleeves center/side parts and making a trim. Topstitch the seam joining the yoke. Topstitch seams joining sleeves along armholes. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline. Topstitch the trimming along outer collars fall.

 

4. Press inner edge of front band into wrong side and topstitch front band on front parts lining. Stitch jackets lining. Stitch lining details together leaving a hole in a sleeves seam unstitched. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.

 

5. Stitch cuffs and elastic braid into rings separately. Insert elastic braid into cuffs, stretch it to cuffs length and make 2 decorative stitches.

For manufacture stitching, first fix elastic braid into cuffs, and then stitch them into a ring.

Stitch cuffs to sleeve catching elastic braids edge into the seam.

 

6. Fix elastic braid into waistband with 2 decorative stitches. Stitch waistband placket to waistband. Stitch the waistband to jacket. Fix waistband plackets on front parts lining.

 

7. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.

 

8. Stitch the lining to cuffs and to waistband, sew the hole in a sleeve.

 

9. Topstitch edgings and the collar.

 

10. Press ready jacket.