6123 JACKET WITH ROUND YOKE

 

YOU NEED: whipcord; lining (jersey, fleece); warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collars height); trimming cord; elastic braids of 4.5 cm cuffs; elastic braid for jackets hem; 2 holder for cord.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems of upper part; 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Front part 2 pieces

2. Back part 1 piece

3. Back yoke 1 piece

4. Front yoke 2 pieces

5. Back insert 1 piece

6. Back insert_2 1 piece

7. Front insert 2 pieces

8. Front insert_2 2 pieces

9. Sleeve 4 pieces

10. Sleeve insert 4 pieces

11. Collar 2 pieces

12. Cuff 2 pieces

13. Front band 2 pieces

14. Large sacking 2 pieces

15. Small sacking 2 pieces

16. Off-set welt 2 pieces

 

Cut bias 2 fabric stripes of 3.5 cm width for trimming. Stripes length depends on trimmings length.

NB! After trimming is ready, there must remain seam allowance of 1 cm. Otherwise, one must regulate width of cut stripes self.

 

Lining:

17. Front part 2 pieces

18. Back part 1 piece

19. Sleeve 2 pieces

 

Warmer:

Topstitch the warmer along contour of outer collar details cut of warmer (1 piece) and waistband placket.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Stitch stripes together, press seams. Fold ready stripe along the center, insert the cord and make a stitch along cord contours.

 

2. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Apply the fusing to pocket place. Mark a line determining ready welts width on the welt. Topstitch the trimming on welts right side; topstitch small sacking on welts inner side. Lay the welt with sacking on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welts outer side must coincide with right side of side front part. Stitch the welt. Stitch large pocket to pockets upper marking. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket markings corners. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch large sacking to zippers upper braid. Stitch sackings edges. Sackings edges must enter into seam joining the zipper and the seam joining the waistband.

 

3. Stitch front/back inserts to front/back yokes inserting the trimming, then topstitch. Stitch yokes to sleeve details. Topstitch the seam along sleeves. Stitch inert_2:s to font/back parts. Topstitch along front/back parts. Stitch sleeve inserts to front/back parts, then topstitch. Stitch yokes to front/back parts, them topstitch. Stitch shoulder edge going over sleeves center seam. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch side seams and sleeves seams together. Stitch outer collar into neckline.

 

4. Press inner edge of front band into wrong side and topstitch front band on front parts lining. Stitch lining parts together. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.

 

5. Stitch cuffs and elastic braid into rings separately. Insert elastic braid into cuffs, stretch it to cuffs length and make 2 decorative stitches.

For manufacture stitching, first fix elastic braid into cuffs, and then stitch them into a ring.

Stitch cuffs to sleeve catching elastic braids edge into the seam.

 

6. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.

 

7. Stitch the lining to cuffs.

 

8. Make holes for the cord into hem lining. Press the hem first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm under. Topstitch the hem.

 

9. Topstitch edgings and the collar.

 

10. Press ready jacket.

 

11. Pull the cord into jacket hem (wrong side).