YOU NEED: whipcord; lining (jersey, fleece);
warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including
stand-up collar’s height); trimming cord; elastic braids of 4.5 cm cuffs;
elastic braid for jacket’s hem; 2 holder for cord.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems of
upper part; 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front
part – 2 pieces
2. Back
part – 1 piece
3. Back
yoke – 1 piece
4. Front
yoke – 2 pieces
5. Back
insert – 1 piece
6. Back
insert_2 – 1 piece
7. Front
insert – 2 pieces
8. Front
insert_2 – 2 pieces
9. Sleeve
– 4 pieces
10. Sleeve
insert – 4 pieces
11. Collar
– 2 pieces
12. Cuff –
2 pieces
13. Front
band – 2 pieces
14. Large
sacking – 2 pieces
15. Small
sacking – 2 pieces
16.
Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Cut bias 2 fabric stripes
of 3.5 cm width for trimming. Stripes’ length depends on trimming’s length.
NB! After
trimming is ready, there must remain seam allowance of 1 cm. Otherwise, one
must regulate width of cut stripes self.
Lining:
17. Front
part – 2 pieces
18. Back
part – 1 piece
19. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
Warmer:
Topstitch the warmer along contour
of outer collar details cut of warmer (1 piece) and waistband placket.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch
stripes together, press seams. Fold ready stripe along the center, insert the cord
and make a stitch along cord contour’s.
2. Apply
the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Apply the
fusing to pocket place. Mark a line determining ready welt’s width on the welt.
Topstitch the trimming on welt’s right side; topstitch small sacking on welt’s
inner side. Lay the welt with sacking on right side of front part coinciding
pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with
right side of side front part. Stitch the welt. Stitch large pocket to pocket’s
upper marking. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards
pocket marking’s corners. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam
allowances. Stitch large sacking to zipper’s upper braid. Stitch sackings’
edges. Sackings’ edges must enter into seam joining the zipper and the seam
joining the waistband.
3. Stitch
front/back inserts to front/back yokes inserting the trimming, then topstitch.
Stitch yokes to sleeve details. Topstitch the seam along sleeves. Stitch
inert_2:s to font/back parts. Topstitch along front/back parts. Stitch sleeve
inserts to front/back parts, then topstitch. Stitch yokes to front/back parts,
them topstitch. Stitch shoulder edge going over sleeve’s center seam. Topstitch
shoulder seam at back part. Stitch side seams and sleeves seams together.
Stitch outer collar into neckline.
4. Press
inner edge of front band into wrong side and topstitch front band on front
part’s lining. Stitch lining parts together. Stitch inner collar into lining
neckline.
5. Stitch cuffs and
elastic braid into rings separately. Insert elastic braid into cuffs, stretch
it to cuff’s length and make 2 decorative stitches.
For manufacture
stitching, first fix elastic braid into cuffs, and then stitch them into a
ring.
Stitch
cuffs to sleeve catching elastic braid’s edge into the seam.
6. Lay one
part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging).
Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the
garment right side out.
7. Stitch the lining to cuffs.
8. Make
holes for the cord into hem lining. Press the hem first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm
under. Topstitch the hem.
9.
Topstitch edgings and the collar.
10. Press
ready jacket.
11. Pull
the cord into jacket hem (wrong side).