7076 HOODED WAISTBAND

 

YOU NEED: moreen; fusing; 1 separable zipper; 3 clasps; Velcro; decorative cord.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem, for pocket upper edges and short edges of side-lower parts.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back yoke 1 folded piece

2. Back part 2 pieces

3. Bust right pocket 1 piece

4. Bust right pocket flap 2 pieces

5. Bust pocket upper half-belt 1 piece

6. Bust pocket lower half-belt 1 piece

7. Lower pocket 2 pieces

8. Lower pocket flap 4 pieces

9. Lower pocket upper flap 2 pieces

10. Lower pocket lower flap 2 pieces

11. Front part 2 pieces

12. Front band 2 pieces

13. Back part facing 1 piece

14. Lower pocket lower-side part 2 pieces

15. Right bust pocket lower-side part 1 piece

16. Hood 2 pieces

17. Hood facing 1 piece

 

Fusing: front band, back neckline fusing, flap details.

 

CUTTING:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, back neckline fusing, flap details.

 

2. Lay flap details right side together and overstitch along three sides. Cut overstitching seams, turn the flap right side out, neaten it and press. Make decorative stitch along flap perimeter. Topstitch Velcro hair segments on flaps according to marks. Remove tacking.

 

3. Fold the half-belt along the center and overstitch along long and one of short edges. Turn half-belt right side out, neaten and press it. Make decorative stitch along half-belt perimeter. Do the same for all half-belts. Remove tacking.

 

4. Stitch hood details and neaten the seam. Overstitch hood outer edge with facing. Make buttonholes into facing. Fold the facing into wrong side, fold free edge under and topstitch towards the hood.

 

5. Stitch lower-side parts to pockets right side together and inserting lower half-belts between parts and pockets. Press pocket lower edges into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch. Topstitch hooked Velcro segments on the pocket according to marks.

 

6. Fold free edge of pocket lower-side part into wrong side and topstitch it on front part according to marks.

 

7. Stitch flaps to front parts inserting upper half-belts. Press flaps downwards and topstitch close to joining seam.

 

8. Lay front parts right sides together, adjust edges and measure edging lengths. Stitch the zipper to edging. Fold closure edgings and press them into wrong side.

 

9. Stitch middle back edge and neaten it. Press seam allowance leftwards, topstitch left back detail along the seam. Stitch back yoke to back part and press it towards yoke; topstitch the yoke.

 

10. Stitch side/shoulder seams. Neaten side/shoulder seams and press them backwards.

 

11. Stitch back neckline facing to front bands. Neaten facings and front band outer edges. Lay front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging and neckline, inserting the hood between them (on front part side). Neaten edging lower corner. Turn edgings right side our and press seams.

 

12. Neaten armhole allowances and press them into wrong side and topstitch. Press garment hem into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch.

 

13. Make decorative stitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm distance. Pull the cord into hood loops.