YOU NEED: fabric suitable for coats; fusing; 1 separable zipper; lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem, sleeve hems, hood outer edge, hood center upper edge.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Back yoke – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Front yoke – 2 pieces
4. Front insert – 2 pieces
5. Front part – 2 pieces
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
8. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
9. Side hood – 2 pieces
10. Center hood – 1 piece
11. Sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Sleeve back insert – 2 pieces
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Pocket lining – 4 pieces
4. Center hood – 1 piece
5. Side hood – 2 pieces
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front band, off-set welt, reinforcement, sleeves/garment hems allowances.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, off-set welt, reinforcement, sleeves/garment hems allowances.
2. Stitch back yoke to back part. Press the seam towards yoke and make decorative stitch along joining seam.
3. Stitch front yoke to front part. Press the seam towards yoke and make decorative stitch along joining seam. Stitch front insert to front part. Press the seam towards insert and make decorative stitch along joining seam.
4. Fold off-set welt along the center wrong side out and overstitch short edges. Cut seams into corners, turn the welt right side out and press it.
5. Mark pocket entrance and reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check pocket place. Mark auxiliary line on welt, parallel to welt fold line, to stitch it, measuring welt width along the length. Mark auxiliary line on pocket upper lining to stitch it. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket entrance to stitch of-set welt and lining. Stitch the lining and off-set welt to front part. Stop stitching neat parallel lines of pocket marking. Check if stitches are correct (on wrong side; stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn the lining wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitch along corner base (on wrong side). Stitch pocket lower lining on seam joining off-set welt; stitch pocket lining edges. Topstitch welt side edges on front part.
6. Lay front parts right sides together, adjust edges coinciding yokes, and measure edging lengths. Stitch the zipper to edging. Press closure edges into wrong side.
7. Stitch middle back edge and press it. Stitch shoulder/side edges. Press shoulder/side seams apart.
8. Stitch fabric hood side parts to center part. Stitch lining hood details together. Lay hoods right sides together and overstitch them along outer edge. Turn the hood right side out and press. Stitch the hood into neckline.
9. Stitch shoulder edges and front band and facing and press seams apart. Lay front band on front part and overstitch along lower corner and edging. Stitch lining hood into facing neckline. Slash corners, slash curved segments, turn right side out and press. Turn edgings right side out and press seams. Fix together seams joining the hood.
10. Stitch sleeve insert to sleeve. Press the seam towards insert and make decorative stitch along joining seam. Stitch sleeve edges and press them apart. Press sleeve hems. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
11. Stitch lining details and stitch lining sleeves into armholes leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowances. Stitch lining to front band inner edges and to back neckline facings.
12. Press garment hem into wrong side. Overstitch sleeve hems and garment hem with lining. Fix lining to garment along waist seams. Turn the garment right side out through the hole in sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole edges together.