YOU NEED: fabric suitable for coats; fusing; 1
separable zipper; lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem,
sleeve hems, hood outer edge, hood center upper edge.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
ÑÎÂÏÀÄÀÒÜ!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back yoke – 2 pieces
2. Back
part – 2 pieces
3. Front
yoke – 2 pieces
4. Front
insert – 2 pieces
5. Front
part – 2 pieces
6. Front
band – 2 pieces
7. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
8. Off-set
welt – 2 pieces
9. Side hood – 2 pieces
10. Center hood – 1 piece
11. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
12. Sleeve back insert – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front
part – 2 pieces
3. Pocket lining – 4 pieces
4. Center hood – 1 piece
5. Side hood – 2 pieces
6. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, off-set welt, reinforcement, sleeves/garment hems allowances.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, off-set welt, reinforcement, sleeves/garment hems
allowances.
2.
Stitch back yoke to back part. Press the seam towards yoke and make decorative
stitch along joining seam.
3. Stitch
front yoke to front part. Press the seam towards yoke and make decorative
stitch along joining seam. Stitch front insert to front part. Press the seam
towards insert and make decorative stitch along joining seam.
4. Fold
off-set welt along the center wrong side out and overstitch short edges. Cut
seams into corners, turn the welt right side out and press it.
5. Mark pocket
entrance and reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Check pocket
place. Mark auxiliary line on welt, parallel to welt fold line, to stitch it,
measuring welt width along the length. Mark auxiliary line on pocket upper
lining to stitch it. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket entrance to stitch
of-set welt and lining. Stitch the lining and off-set welt to front part. Stop
stitching neat parallel lines of pocket marking. Check if stitches are correct
(on wrong side; stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal
slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn the lining wrong side out through this
hole. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitch along corner base (on wrong
side). Stitch pocket lower lining on seam joining off-set welt; stitch pocket
lining edges. Topstitch welt side edges on front part.
6. Lay
front parts right sides together, adjust edges coinciding yokes, and measure
edging lengths. Stitch the zipper to edging. Press closure edges into wrong
side.
7. Stitch middle back
edge and press it. Stitch shoulder/side edges. Press shoulder/side seams apart.
8. Stitch
fabric hood side parts to center part. Stitch lining hood details together. Lay
hoods right sides together and overstitch them along outer edge. Turn the hood
right side out and press. Stitch the hood into neckline.
9. Stitch
shoulder edges and front band and facing and press seams apart. Lay front band
on front part and overstitch along lower corner and edging. Stitch lining hood
into facing neckline. Slash corners, slash curved segments, turn right side out
and press. Turn edgings right side out and
press seams. Fix together seams joining the hood.
10. Stitch
sleeve insert to sleeve. Press the seam towards insert and make decorative stitch
along joining seam. Stitch sleeve edges and press them apart. Press sleeve
hems. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
11. Stitch lining
details and stitch lining sleeves into armholes leaving a hole into sleeve
right front seam. Press lining allowances. Stitch lining to front band inner
edges and to back neckline facings.
12. Press garment hem
into wrong side. Overstitch sleeve hems and garment hem with lining. Fix lining
to garment along waist seams. Turn the garment right side out through the hole
in sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole edges together.