YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats; fusing; 1 separating zip; lining; 6 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 1 piece
3. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Collar – 2 pieces
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Hem facing – 2 pieces
8. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
9. On-stitch placket – 2 pieces
10. Cuff – 2 pieces
11. Sleeve – 2 pieces
1. Back part – 1 piece
2. Front part – 1 piece
3. Small sacking – 2 pieces
4. Large sacking – 2 pieces
5. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front band, of-set welt, reinforcement, on-stitch placket, cuffs, hem facing, collar.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, of-set welt, on-stitch placket, cuffs, hem facing and collar.
2. Fold off-set welt along the center wrong side out and overstitch short edges. Cut corner seams, turn the welt right side out and press it.
3. Apply the reinforcement to wrong side of pocket entrance.
4. Mark off-set welt place on right front part. Press the welt along the center. Mark the line of stitching to the shirt, measure the width. Lay welts wrong side on small sacking’s right side (welt’s ready edge down), adjust edges and let lining’s edges (equal width) beyond the welt. Stitch the welt to front part coinciding marked lines. (The welt must be between front part and small sacking.) Fold the seam joining the welt and the sacking towards the welt. Lay large sacking on front part right sides together, line-on-line to the seam joining the welt. Tack, then stitch at 0.8-1 cm from the seam joining the welt. Check if the welt and the sacking are stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be parallel). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Cut pocket’s ends at 1-1.5 cm diagonally. Turn the welt and the sacking wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket’s ends with double reverse stitch along corners’ bases. Stitch the sacking and neaten it. Tack the welt to front part and press it. Topstitch welt’s ends. Remove tacking.
5. Lay front parts right sides together. Adjust edges and measure front edgings’ lengths. Stitch the zipper to front edgings. Press edgings (closure segment) under.
6. Stitch sleeve’s upper seam. Press it backwards. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Press joining seam towards the sleeve.
Stitch side seam together with sleeve lower seam up to slit notch. Press the seam apart.
7. Lay outer collar on inner one and overstitch along outer contour. Cut rounded corner’s allowances and turn the collar right side out. Press the collar.
8. Lay outer on-stitch placket on inner one and overstitch along outer contour. Cut rounded corners and turn the placket right side out. Press the placket. Topstitch it at 0.5 cm from edges. Make buttonholes. Topstitch the placket on left front part. Turn the placket towards the closure and topstitch at 0.5 cm from joining seam.
9. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeves in. Press lining allowances. Stitch the collar into the neckline. Overstitch front edging and neckline with the lining. Turn the jacket right side out through he, segment. Turn front edgings into right side. Press them. Fix the lining along garment/sleeves’ hems overstitching sleeves’ slits.
10. Make pleats into sleeves according to marks. Press the cuff along the center right side out; press cuff’s lower inner edge under.
11. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve. Overstitch cuff’s ends, cut seam allowances in corners, then turn the detail right side out. Topstitch cuff’s lower pressed edge on joining seam. Topstitch the cuff along the contour and press ready detail.
12. Press hem facing along the center right side out; press facing’s lower inner edge under.
13. Stitch the facing to jacket’s hem easing front/back hems little (see easing scale on the pattern). Overstitch facing’s ends, cut seam allowances into corners under and turn right side out. Topstitch facing’s lower pressed edge on joining seam. Topstitch along the contour and press ready facing.
14. Sew buttons on right front edge. Sew false buttons on on-stitch placket’s buttonholes.