7105 TROUSERS WITH CLASPS
YOU NEED: denim/cotton velvet; fusing; 1 zipper; 1 button; 2 clasps; elastic braid of 3.5 cm width.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
NB! Clasp’s width is 3 cm!
1. Waistband – 1 piece
2. Yoke – 2 pieces
3. Upper back part – 2 pieces
4. Lower back part – 2 pieces
5. Center back part – 2 pieces
6. Upper front part – 2 pieces
7. Lower front part – 2 pieces
8. Center front part – 2 pieces
9. Upper pocket – 2 pieces
10. Upper sacking – 2 pieces
11. Lower pocket – 2 pieces
12. Flap – 4 pieces
13. Pocket inset – 2 pieces
14. Half-belt – 4 pieces
15. Button catch – 1 piece
Fusing: front waistband, button catch, flaps, pocket entrance’s allowance.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front waistband, button catch, flaps, pocket entrance’s allowance.
2. Stitch the yoke to back part. Neaten joining seam and press it towards the yoke. Topstitch joining seam at 0.5 cm distance.
3. Stitch center front parts to lower front parts. Press the seam downwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch center front parts to upper front parts. Press the seam upwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.5 cm from the seam.
4. Stitch center back parts to lower back parts. Press the seam downwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch center back parts to upper back parts. Press the seam upwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.5 cm from the seam.
5. Lay the pocket on upper front part right sides together. Stitch it, them fold the pocket into wrong side, press it and topstitch. Lay the sacking under the pocket according to notches. Stitch together and neaten along pocket’s contour. Make a temporal fixing stitch along waist joining line/side seam at pocket’s level at 0.5 cm from the edge.
6. Lay flaps right sides together and overstitch. Cut corner allowances and turn flaps right sides out. Topstitch flap’s outer contour at 0.5 cm from the edge and neaten flap’s upper edge.
7. Stitch pocket inset to side/lower edges of lower pocket. Neaten upper edge of lower pocket and inset’s upper edges, then fold allowances into wrong side and topstitch. Press lower/side edges of pocket inset into wrong side.
8. Stitch half-belts along long edges right sides together. Turn them right side out, press and topstitch.
9. Neaten front/middle edges of trousers parts as well as hems. Bend half-belts in twain and pull them into claps. Lay half-belts and the clasp on front part at center part’s level. Cut extra length out. Fix half-belts on front part with a stitch at 0.5 cm from side edge.
10. Stitch side seams, neaten them. Lay the pocket on front part according to marks. Topstitch pockets on left/right parts at 0.2 cm from insets’ edges. Topstitch flaps according to marks, press it downwards and topstitch it close to joining seam.
11. Stitch inseams, press them backwards. Stitch front/middle edges up to closure notch. Make the second stitch along the crotch seam close to the stitch joining front/middle seams.
12. Stitch the zipper under closure slit’s left edge. Stitch zipper’s free braid to right one-piece facing. Fold button catch along the center and overstitch lower short edge. Topstitch closure’s one-piece facing on button catch (left edge). Topstitch slit’s right edge catching the facing.
13. Press the waistband along the center right side out and neaten lower inner edge.
14. Stitch the waistband to trousers’ upper edge. Overstitch waistband’s ends, cut seam allowance and turn it right side out. Insert elastic braid along back part between side seams. Fix the braid with stitches at waistband’s middle and at side seam level. Topstitch waistband’s lower neatened edge along joining seam and press ready waistband.
15. Press hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch.
16. Make a buttonholes on waistband’s right edge, sew a button on left one.