7105 TROUSERS WITH CLASPS

 

YOU NEED: denim/cotton velvet; fusing; 1 zipper; 1 button; 2 clasps; elastic braid of 3.5 cm width.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

NB! Clasps width is 3 cm!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Waistband 1 piece

2. Yoke 2 pieces

3. Upper back part 2 pieces

4. Lower back part 2 pieces

5. Center back part 2 pieces

6. Upper front part 2 pieces

7. Lower front part 2 pieces

8. Center front part 2 pieces

9. Upper pocket 2 pieces

10. Upper sacking 2 pieces

11. Lower pocket 2 pieces

12. Flap 4 pieces

13. Pocket inset 2 pieces

14. Half-belt 4 pieces

15. Button catch 1 piece

 

Fusing: front waistband, button catch, flaps, pocket entrances allowance.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front waistband, button catch, flaps, pocket entrances allowance.

 

2. Stitch the yoke to back part. Neaten joining seam and press it towards the yoke. Topstitch joining seam at 0.5 cm distance.

 

3. Stitch center front parts to lower front parts. Press the seam downwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch center front parts to upper front parts. Press the seam upwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.5 cm from the seam.

 

4. Stitch center back parts to lower back parts. Press the seam downwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch center back parts to upper back parts. Press the seam upwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.5 cm from the seam.

 

5. Lay the pocket on upper front part right sides together. Stitch it, them fold the pocket into wrong side, press it and topstitch. Lay the sacking under the pocket according to notches. Stitch together and neaten along pockets contour. Make a temporal fixing stitch along waist joining line/side seam at pockets level at 0.5 cm from the edge.

 

6. Lay flaps right sides together and overstitch. Cut corner allowances and turn flaps right sides out. Topstitch flaps outer contour at 0.5 cm from the edge and neaten flaps upper edge.

 

7. Stitch pocket inset to side/lower edges of lower pocket. Neaten upper edge of lower pocket and insets upper edges, then fold allowances into wrong side and topstitch. Press lower/side edges of pocket inset into wrong side.

 

8. Stitch half-belts along long edges right sides together. Turn them right side out, press and topstitch.

 

9. Neaten front/middle edges of trousers parts as well as hems. Bend half-belts in twain and pull them into claps. Lay half-belts and the clasp on front part at center parts level. Cut extra length out. Fix half-belts on front part with a stitch at 0.5 cm from side edge.

 

10. Stitch side seams, neaten them. Lay the pocket on front part according to marks. Topstitch pockets on left/right parts at 0.2 cm from insets edges. Topstitch flaps according to marks, press it downwards and topstitch it close to joining seam.

 

11. Stitch inseams, press them backwards. Stitch front/middle edges up to closure notch. Make the second stitch along the crotch seam close to the stitch joining front/middle seams.

 

12. Stitch the zipper under closure slits left edge. Stitch zippers free braid to right one-piece facing. Fold button catch along the center and overstitch lower short edge. Topstitch closures one-piece facing on button catch (left edge). Topstitch slits right edge catching the facing.

 

13. Press the waistband along the center right side out and neaten lower inner edge.

 

14. Stitch the waistband to trousers upper edge. Overstitch waistbands ends, cut seam allowance and turn it right side out. Insert elastic braid along back part between side seams. Fix the braid with stitches at waistbands middle and at side seam level. Topstitch waistbands lower neatened edge along joining seam and press ready waistband.

 

15. Press hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch.

 

16. Make a buttonholes on waistbands right edge, sew a button on left one.