6101 SMOCK WITH DOUBLE SLEEVES
YOU NEED: jersey or fleece; fusing.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems, 4 cm for upper sleeves.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 1 piece
2. Lower front part – 1 piece
3. Back part – 1 piece
4. Lower back part – 1 piece
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Collar – 1 piece
8. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
9. Large sacking – 2 pieces
10. Small sacking – 2 pieces
ADVICE: to prevent seam from stiffing, sew details with special (zig zag) stitch. To prevent hem from stiffing neaten it with overlock and then stitch using double needle. Do the same for all edges which must stay elastic.
The above is not for industrial manufacturing.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of the welt, press the welt along the center. Lay the reinforcement stripe under pocket place. Mark a line on the welt determining ready welt’s width. Topstitch small sacking on welt’s inner side. Lay the welt with sacking on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking and the line on the welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with front part’s right side. Stitch the welt. Stitch large sacking to pocket’s upper marking. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines making diagonal slashes towards corners of pocket marking. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch sackings’ edges fixing pocket’s corners.
2. Stitch lower parts to front/back parts. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch shoulder edges together. Stitch upper sleeves into open armholes. Topstitch seams joining sleeves along armholes. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams leaving slit segments unstitched.
3. Stitch lower sleeves. Press upper sleeves’ allowances under. Stitch lower sleeve to allowance’s edge. Make decorative stitch at 3 cm from upper sleeve’s lower allowance.
4. Stitch the collar into ring, then fold it along the center. Stitch the collar into neckline stretching collars edge and placing the seam joining the collar close to left shoulder edge. Topstitch the seam joining the collar with stretchable stitch.
5. Press garment/sleeves hems. Topstitch garment hem, slits and sleeves hems.
6. Press ready smock.