6113 WAISTCOAT
YOU NEED: whipcord;
lining (may be fleece); warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front
length including height of stand-up collar); trimming cord; elastic braid for
garment hem; cord holders.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for upper part’s lower
edges, 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center front part
– 2 pieces
2. Side front part –
2 pieces
3. Center back part –
1 piece
4. Side back part – 2
pieces
5. Collar – 2 pieces
6. Large sacking – 2
pieces
7. Off-set welt – 2
pieces
Cut fabric bias
stripes of 3.5 cm width to make trimming piping of. Stripes’ length depends on
trimming length.
NB! After the
trimming is ready, seam allowance must be 1 cm. Otherwise, you have to adjust
stripes’ width yourself.
Lining:
8. Front part – 2
pieces
9. Back part – 1
piece
10. Small sacking – 2
pieces
Warmer:
Stitch the warmer to
back/front part and outer collar along the contour (stitch warmer to back/front
parts after side parts are stitched to).
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch stripes
together, press seams. Fold the stripe along the center, insert the cord and
make a stitch along cord contour.
2. Apply the fusing
to wrong side of the welt, press the welt along the center. Lay the fusing
reinforcement under pocket place. Mark a line on the welt determining ready
welt’s width. Topstitch small sacking on welt’s wrong side. Lay the welt with
sacking on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking and the line on
the welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with front part’s right side. Stitch
the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines making diagonal slashes
towards corners of pocket marking. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam
allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper to
front part on right side, 0.1 cm from pocket entrance. Stitch small sacking to
zipper’s lower braid and fold it downwards. Stitch large sacking to zipper’s
upper braid. Sacking edges must enter the seam joining the zipper and reach the
hem.
3. Stitch side parts
to front/back parts inserting the trimming. Topstitch joining seams along
details of dark fabric. Stitch shoulder edges. Topstitch shoulder seam at back
part. Stitch side seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline.
4. Stitch lining
details. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.
5. Lay zipper’s part
on edging right sides together (teeth are outwards edging). Overstitch edgings
and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper (placket is on left front
part).
6. Overstitch
armholes with lining ad topstitch them.
7. Make loops for he
cord into hem allowance. Press hem allowance first at 1 cm, then at 3.5 cm.
Topstitch hem allowance.
8. Topstitch edgings
and collar.
9. Press ready
waistcoat.
10. Pull elastic
braid for holders into garment hem’s wrong side.