You need: silk satin
or thick sateen, share fatin (of two tinctures, for example, of lacteous white
and cream white); zipper, fusing, metal/plastic bones, ready underskirt (of
stiff fatin), lace border of 1.5-2 cm width.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
Seam allowances: 1 cm
for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (minimal width is 150 cm) to find out how much
material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
PLEASE KEEP BEAM
THREAD DIRECTION.
CUTTING:
Satin:
1. Front skirt – 1
piece
2. Back skirt – 2
pieces
3. Front/back facings
– 4 pieces
4. Plastron – 1 piece
5. Border_1, border_2, border_3 – 2 pieces
Fatin:
1. Flounce_1:
quantity will be given on the piece. (For example, kd-57. For better cutting
you can fold fatin several times.)
2. Flounce_2:
quantity will be given on the piece. (For example, kd-59. For better cutting
you can fold fatin several times.)
3. Front skirt’s
lower frill – 1 piece
4. Back skirt’s lower
frill – 2 pieces
5. All bodice details
Fusing:
1. Front/back facings
– 4 pieces
2. Plastron – 1 piece
3. Border_1,
border_2, border_3 – 2 pieces
Trimming: you need
lace border of 1.5-2 cm width to trim (overlap) seams. You need also satin
piping to trim bones.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. All front upper
pieces are of 3 layers of fatin (to make them less transparent and stiff). It
is better to take sheer and not too stiff fatin.
2. All bodice seams
are to be overlapped along inner/outer sides with satin piping; set into this
piping metallic/plastic bones which are 2 cm shorter than seam length (to make
sewing more comfortable).
3. Stitch satin
piping (long pattern lines) on front middle/center back pieces to made them
less transparent. Stitch lace border on sides along shaped lines.
4. Overlap all bodice
seams additionally with the lace borders.
5. Upper fatin skirt:
stitch flounces to skirt upper piece along marking. Gather lower frill a little
and stitch it to upper skirt piece’s lower edge.
6. Stitch the
flounce_2 (narrower) along lines between the line joining the skirt to the
bodice and the sixth line of the skirt. Then stitch on the flounce_1 (wider)
only.
7. Cut flounces with
seam allowances. Cut a flounce along “cutting” line, lay it flat, then stitch
on the skirt along inside diameter, one after another, leaving all square's
ends free (see picture).