4192 DAMES MANTEL MET HOGE TAILLE
ALS DE PATROONDELEN DUBBELE RANDEN HEBBEN, ZIJN ALLE NADEN EN ZOMEN IN HET PATROON VERWERKT,
IN GEVAL VAN ENKELE RANDEN ZIJN DE NADEN EN DE ZOMEN NIET INBEGREPEN.
LET OP! ALS EERSTE,PRINT DE PAPIEREN PATROONDELEN UIT EN LEG DEZE OP DE STOF (de stofbreedte tussen 90 cm en 150 cm)OM TE BEPALEN HOEVEEL STOF JE NODIG HEBT (vergeet dubbele en symmetrische delen niet).
BIJ HET AAN ELKAAR NAAIEN VAN DE DELEN LET OP DE INZETTEKENS - HOUD DE INZETTEKENS OP ELKAAR!
Wilt u een volledig beschrijving in het Nederlands, neem alstublieft schriftelijk contact met ons per e-mail maatpatronen@gmail.com Geef de nummer van het model en uw e-mailadres door en wij maken een werkbeschrijving in het Nederlands zo spoedig mogelijk voor u.
Recommendations on fabric: soft fabric suitable for coats of natural or mixed fibers
You will also need: fusible; lining; shoulder pads; sleeve heads; 7 buttons of 2.5 – 3 cm diameter
If the pattern has a double line around it, the seam allowances are included.
Note: By default, seam allowances are NOT included (single line) and will need to be added when laying out and cutting details.
Seam allowance: on hem of the garment - 3.5 cm; on off-set welt, underlay sides, and pocket bags – 2 cm; along the lower edge of lining - 2 cm; other seams - 1.0 cm
Attention! First of all, please print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 cm) to see how much fabric you will need. Don't forget to take into account pieces to be duplicated or cut on a fold.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches. They must match up with corresponding pieces.
CUTTING:
The word, “beam” used on some patterns means “straight of grain”. Some pieces will be cut on the fold, this is noted on the pattern piece. Mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats etc. from the pattern onto your fabric.
Darts: The fold of the dart is always pressed toward the center of your garment, or down toward the hem.
Fabric:
1. Upper back – cut 2
2. Lower back – cut 1 on fold 3. Center front – cut 2
4. Side front – cut 2
5. Lower front — cut 2
6. Back neck facing – cut 1 7. Front band facing –cut 2 8. Upper sleeve – cut 2
9. Lower sleeve – cut 2
10. Cuff — cut 2
11. Belt – cut 1
12. Collar – cut 2
13. Off-set welt – cut 2
14. Underlay – cut 2
Lining:
1. Upper back – cut 1
2. Lower back – cut 1 on fold
3. Center front – cut 2
4. Side front – cut 2
5. Lower front — cut 2
6. Large pocket bag –cut 2
7. Small pocket bag – cut 2
8. Upper sleeve – cut 2
9. Lower sleeve – cut 2
*ATTENTION: Lining is cut using main pattern pieces excluding width of front band facing and back neck facing.
Fusible interfacing: center front, top collar, front band facing, back neck facing, off-set welt, belt, armhole edge and hem of the garment
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply interfacing to listed pieces.
2. Fold off-set welt in half lengthwise, right side out, press. Apply fusible interfacing to pocket section. Mark a line on off-set welt, showing the width of off-set welt when ready. Sew smaller pocket bag on inner side of off-set welt. Lay off-set welt right side downwards onto right side of front up to marker (closer to the center). Sew off-set welt. Topstitch underlay onto bigger pocket bag, turning the long edge inwards. Sew large pocket bag to other pocket marker line. Cut pocket entrance in the center between marking lines, making diagonal snips to corners of pocket markings. Turn details of
pocket onto wrong side. Straighten seam allowances and press. Sew edges of pocket bags, fixing corners of pocket.
3. Sew darts on upper back. Press darts towards center. Make and fasten counter
pleat according to markers on lower back. Sew lower back to upper back. Press seam upwards.
4. Sew side fronts to center fronts. Press seam towards center of front. Make and sew pleat on lower front according to markers. Lay depth of the pleat on 2 sides, making a counter pleat. Sew lower front to upper front. Press seam upwards.
5. Sew side and shoulder seams. Press the seam apart. Serge side seams.
6. Cut a bias strip 4 х 15 cm for loop buttonhole. Fold strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew. Turn right side out and press. Adjust the loop to button size and sew to side of collar.
7. Pin collar right sides together, and sew outer edge and sides. Start and finish seam exactly near marked line of collar connection seam. Turn collar right side out and press.
8. Sew back neck facing to front band facings. Press seams apart.
9. Serge and press hem. Pin front band facing to front, right sides together, sew center front edge up to notch, showing the end of connecting the collar. Snip seam allowance near the notch. Sew lower edge of front band facings to front exactly on marked hem fold-line, leaving 1.5 cm to inner edge of front band facing. Turn facing onto right side, straighten seams.
10. Sew top collar in the neckline, sew lower collar to facing. Press seams apart. Fix seam allowances of collars connecting seam close to seams.
11. Sew and press apart elbow sleeve seam. Sew and press apart front sleeve seam. Fold cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew into ring. Press seam apart. Turn cuff out, fold in half and press. Sew cuff to lower edge of sleeve. Make a gathering stitch on the sleeve cap. Sew sleeve in armhole, matching notches and adjusting ease. Sew in shoulder pads and sleeve heads. 12. Sew lining same as main fabric. Turn seam allowance of lower edge of lining under
twice at 1.5 cm and topstitch. Sew lining to inner facing edges. Trim seam allowance on inner edge of facing near the start of lining connection. Turn seam allowance of facings inwards from hem line
to slash and sew with invisible stitches. Serge lining seam and press towards lining. Sew hem of the garment with invisible stitches. Make a decorative stitch at 1 cm from front edge and collar. 13. Sew lining to sleeve hem. Turn the coat right side out. Make a decorative stitch at 1 cm from the cuff hem and from the cuff connection seam.
14. Make buttonholes on right front; sew buttons on left and right fronts, and on collar.
15. Make a decorative stitch on back along outer and inner edge of pleats at 1 cm from fold-line, catching hem.
16. Fold belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew along outer edges,
leaving a slit for turning out. Turn belt right side out, turn seam allowances of slit inwards and sew with invisible stitches. Make a decorative stitch at 1 cm from the edge along the perimeter of the belt. Make buttonholes on the belt. Sew buttons on back according to buttonholes position.