4359 ZOMERMANTEL
ALS DE PATROONDELEN DUBBELE RANDEN HEBBEN, ZIJN ALLE NADEN EN ZOMEN IN HET PATROON VERWERKT,
IN GEVAL VAN ENKELE RANDEN ZIJN DE NADEN EN DE ZOMEN NIET INBEGREPEN.
LET OP! ALS EERSTE,PRINT DE PAPIEREN PATROONDELEN UIT EN LEG DEZE OP DE STOF (de stofbreedte tussen 90 cm en 150 cm)OM TE BEPALEN HOEVEEL STOF JE NODIG HEBT (vergeet dubbele en symmetrische delen niet).
BIJ HET AAN ELKAAR NAAIEN VAN DE DELEN LET OP DE INZETTEKENS - HOUD DE INZETTEKENS OP ELKAAR!
Wilt u een volledig beschrijving in het Nederlands, neem alstublieft schriftelijk contact met ons per e-mail maatpatronen@gmail.com Geef de nummer van het model en uw e-mailadres door en wij maken een werkbeschrijving in het Nederlands zo spoedig mogelijk voor u.
Recommendations on fabric: natural or mixed suiting fabric
You will also need: fusible interfacing; lining; shoulder pads; sleeve heads; 6 buttons
If the pattern has a double line around it, the seam allowances are included.
Note: By default, seam allowances are NOT included (single line) and will need to be added when laying out and cutting details.
Seam allowance: all seams - 1 cm; on hem of the garment and hem of sleeve - 3.5 cm, along the edge of lining - 2 cm
Attention! First of all, please print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 cm) to see how much fabric you will need. Don't forget to take into account pieces to be duplicated or cut on a fold.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches. They must match up with corresponding pieces.
CUTTING:
The word, “beam” used on some patterns means “straight of grain”. Some pieces will be cut on the fold, this is noted on the pattern piece. Mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats etc. from the pattern onto your fabric.
Darts: The fold of the dart is always pressed toward the center of your garment, or down toward the hem.
Fabric:
1. Upper back – cut 2
2. Lower back – cut 1 on fold 3. Center upper front – cut 2 4. Side upper front – cut 2
5. Lower front — cut 2
6. Back neck facing – cut 1 7. Button-stand – cut 2
8. Upper sleeve – cut 2
9. Lower sleeve – cut 2 10. Lower collar – cut 1 11. Upper collar – cut 1
Lining:
1. Upper back – cut 2
2. Lower back – cut 1 on fold 3. Center upper front –cut 2
4. Side upper front – cut 2
5. Lower front — cut 2
6. Upper sleeve – cut 2
7. Lower sleeve – cut 2
8. Hidden closure lining –cut 2
ATTENTION: lining pieces are cut from main pattern pieces excluding width of button-stand and back neck facing.
Interfacing: center front, upper collar, button-stand, back neck facing, closure lining – cut 1, armhole sections and seam allowances of the garment hem.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply interfacing to listed parts.
2. Sew darts on upper back. Press darts toward center. On lower back make and fasten
a counter pleat according to marks. Sew upper and lower backs. Press seam allowances upwards. 3. Sew side fronts to center fronts. Press seam allowances toward center. On lower front make a pleat according to marks. Direct depth to side seam. Sew lower and upper fronts, press seam allowances upwards.
4. Hidden Button Placket: Mark the three lines closure opening on right side of right button-stand: first line is parallel to button-stand line and comes to 1.5 cm from the edge of button-stand when ready; second and third line are to limit the length of the closure. Put fused facing onto right side of button-stand right side downwards directed from edge of button-stand, matching facing edge with marked line. Stitch at 0.5 cm from marked line along closure opening up to lines limiting the length of the closure. Put second closure facing edge to edge with first facing connecting stitch and sew at 0.5 cm. Check on wrong side that you stitched the facing correctly (stitches must be parallel). Cut the opening through. Make slanting cuts at 1-1.5 cm from the end of opening. Turn facings wrong side out through the opening, shaping a frame from fused facing; frame is equal to distance between stitches. Put fastening stitch into facing connecting seam. Press second facing toward side of inner edge of button-stand and put fastening stitch at 0.1 cm from the facing connecting seam. Mark and make buttonholes. Buttonholes are punched on button-stand together with fused facing. Straighten and fasten ends of closure from the wrong side with double backstitch on corners' edge. Sew edges of the facings. Stay-stitch between each pair of buttonholes; the length of the staystitch is equal to frame width. Press button-stand.
5. Place button-stand and front right sides together, pin together and stitch along buttonstand. Stitch from side of front up to the notch showing the end of sewing in the collar. Stitch lower edges of button-stands to front exactly on marked line of hem turning. Trim top and lower corners of button-
stand. Topstitch seam allowance: on closure section – onto button-stand, on lapel sections – onto front band. Stitch at 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn front bands right side out, straighten seams.
6. Sew side and shoulder seams of the garment. Press seam apart.
7. Pin collar right sides together, and sew ends and outer edge. Start and end the seam exactly near marked line of collar and neckline connecting seam. Turn collar right side out and press.
8. Sew shoulder seams of back neck facing and button-stand. Press seam apart. Sew upper collar into the neckline of the garment, and lower collar into the back facing / button-stand neckline. Press seam apart. Fasten seam allowances of collars close to seams.
9. Sew and press apart elbow sleeve seam. Sew and press apart front sleeve seam. Make a gathering stitch along cap of sleeve. Sew sleeve into armhole, easing in on curves and matching notches. Sew in shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
10. Sew lining the same way as main fabric pieces, leaving a slit in front right seam of
sleeve for turning. Sew lining to inner button-stand edges and back neck facing. Sew garment hem with lining.
11. Sew lining to sleeve hems. Turn coat right side out. Sew the slit closed.
12. Sew a decorative stitch along the hidden closure. Sew buttons on left front.