WERKBESCHRIJVING
ALS DE PATROONDELEN DUBBELE RANDEN HEBBEN, ZIJN ALLE NADEN EN ZOMEN IN HET PATROON VERWERKT,
IN GEVAL VAN ENKELE RANDEN ZIJN DE NADEN EN DE ZOMEN NIET INBEGREPEN.
LET OP! ALS EERSTE,PRINT DE PAPIEREN PATROONDELEN UIT EN LEG DEZE OP DE STOF (de stofbreedte tussen 90 cm en 150 cm)OM TE BEPALEN HOEVEEL STOF JE NODIG HEBT (vergeet dubbele en symmetrische delen niet).
BIJ HET AAN ELKAAR NAAIEN VAN DE DELEN LET OP DE INZETTEKENS - HOUD DE INZETTEKENS OP ELKAAR!
Wilt u een volledig beschrijving in het Nederlands, neem alstublieft schriftelijk contact met ons per e-mail maatpatronen@gmail.com Geef de nummer van het model en uw e-mailadres door en wij maken een werkbeschrijving in het Nederlands zo spoedig mogelijk voor u.
Recommendations on fabric: thin natural/mixed suiting fabrics.
You will also need: fusible interfacing; lining; thin shoulder pads; 1 button.
Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Seam allowance for hem of sleeve 3.5 cm.
Note on seam allowances:
- If the pattern has double contour the seam allowances are included. They are 1 cm unless specified otherwise.
- If the pattern has single contour, the seam allowances are NOT included and need to be added when laying out the pattern.
Note on length of fabric:
Attention! The amount of fabric needed for your pattern is not included. It will depend on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of the fabric you plan to use. First, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 cm). Measure how much fabric you will need. Don't forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and pieces that are cut on the fold.
CUTTING:
Note on cutting:
On the pattern pieces, “beam” means straight of grain. Lay out your pieces accordingly. Some pieces will be cut on the fold. This is noted on the pattern piece. Mark all notches and other design features such as pleats etc. from the pattern onto your fabric.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must match up.
Main fabric:
1. Center back – cut 2
2. Side back – cut 2
3. Side front – cut 2
4. Right center front – cut 1
5. Left center front — cut 1
6. Buttonstand (center front facing) of left front – cut 1 7. Buttonstand (center front facing) of right front — cut 1
8. Back neck facing – cut 1 9. Upper sleeve – cut 2
10. Lower sleeve – cut 2 11. Yoke 1 – cut 1
12. Yoke 2 — cut 1
13. Back hem facing — cut 1
Lining:
1. Center back – cut 2 2. Side back – cut 2
3. Side front – cut 2
4. Front lining – cut 2 5. Upper sleeve – cut 2 6. Lower sleeve – cut 2
Attention: lining of back and side front are cut using main pattern pieces except for the width of back neckline facing and back hem facing correspondingly.
Fusible interfacing: buttonstand (center front facing), back neck facing, back hem facing, center front, side front, hem of sleeve.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply fusible interfacing. Apply additional tape of fusible interfacing along front neckline.
2. Sew dart on center front. Press dart towards top. Sew yoke 1 and yoke 2 to right front. Press seam apart. Sew and press apart princess seam on front.
3. Sew dart on center back. Sew and press apart princess seams on back. Sew and press apart center back seam. Sew and press apart shoulder and side seams of jacket.
4. Sew and press apart shoulder seams of back neckline facing and buttonstand. Sew back hem facing to buttonstands. Press seams apart.
5. Pin buttonstand and facing onto right side of front, right sides together, pin together and sew buttonstand, front neckline, back neckline and hem of jacket. When stitching make sure to place the front piece on top. Topstitch seam allowance on buttonstand onto buttonstand. Place stitch line at 0,2 cm from seam.
6. Sew and press apart elbow sleeve seam, adjusting ease on upper part of sleeve and matching notches. Press hem of sleeve. Fold away seam allowance on hem, sew and press apart front sleeve seam.
7. Sew sleeves into armholes matching notches, adjusting ease along upper side of sleeve cap. Sew shoulder pads.
8. Sew seams on lining and sew in sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in left elbow seam. Sew lining to inner edges of buttonstands and to facings.
9. Sew lining to hem of sleeve. Turn jacket right side out. Sew the opening closed.
10. Make buttonhole on right front, sew on button on left front.
11. Make and baste pleats on decorative collar using slip stitches or hem stitches as desired on the wrong side.