ATTENTION!
ALL
THE PATTERNS ARE WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES. WHEN
SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
YOU
NEED: fabric
suitable for coats (cloth), lining, fusing, 4 buttons, shoulder pads. To define
fabric’s length, lay paper patterns on fabric’s width and define the
length.
CUTTING:
1.
Lower back part – 2 pieces
2.
Side back part_2 – 2 pieces
3.
Side back part_1 – 2 pieces
4.
Center back part – 1 folded piece
5.
Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
6.
Half-belt – 2 pieces
7.
Off-set welt – 4 pieces
8.
Sacking – 2 pieces
9.
Center front –art – 2 pieces
10.
Front band – 2 pieces
11.
Side front part_2 – 2 pieces
12.
Side front part_1 – 2 pieces
13.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
14.
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
15.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
16.
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
17.
Back part – 1 folded piece
18.
Front part – 2 pieces
Fusing:
apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, lower parts
of off-set welts and half-belt. Press fusing additionally to hem
allowance.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Stitch middle seam of lower back part, press the seam apart. Coincide notches,
tack a pleat. Then stitch the pleat along upper allowance, a bit above marked
line.
2.
Stitch the seam joining center back part to lower back part as well as relieve
seams.
3.
Make stitches on the half-belt along three sides, turn it right side over and
press foldings. Fold open edge under and overstitch half-belt’s edges at 0.5 cm
distance. Fix the half-belt to back part with buttons, closing the seam joining
center back part to lower back part.
4.
Stitch around off-set welt along three edges, turn it right side out and press
foldings. Make decorative stitch along welt’s edges at 0.5 cm distance. Lay the
welt on right side of side front part_2, coinciding welt’s upper edge to the
notch, coincide welt’s open edges to edge of relieve of side front part_2; lay
sacking’s upper part on the welt, tack all details together. Lay sacking’s lower
part on right side of side front part_1. Stitch off-set welt and sackings.
Stitch relieve seams into front parts. Fold sackings into wrong side, adjust
them and stitch. Topstitch off-set welts’ short edges on front part along
decorative stitch.
5.
Stitch shoulder/side seams.
6.
Stitch middle seam at outer collar one-piece with front bands. Stitch front
bands’ shoulder seams and back neckline facings. Stitch inner collar into
garment’s neckline, stitch outer collar into facing’s neckline. Press joining
seas’ allowances apart.
7.
Lay front bands on front parts right sides together and pin to edgings; pin
edges of outer/inner collars. Process the coat neatly along edgings and collar.
Press allowance of seam joining inner collar and back neckline facing apart and
sew allowance from inside.
8.
Sew garment hem.
9.
Stitch sleeve seams, process vents in elbow seams. Stitch sleeves into
armholes.
10.
Sew shoulder pads.
11.
Stitch lining details together. Stitch lining to sleeve hems, front bands’ inner
edges as well as to back neckline facing. Sew the lining
under.
12.
Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.