5012 JACKET

YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool with artificial yarns; fusing; 3 buttons; lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Outer collar – 1 piece

2. Inner collar – 1 piece

3. Back part – 1 piece

4. Side back part – 2 pieces

5. Front part – 2 pieces

6. Side front part – 2 pieces

7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

9. Front band – 2 pieces

10. Neckline facing – 1 piece

Lining:

1. Center back part – 1 piece

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Side front part – 2 pieces

4. Center front part – 2 pieces

5. Sacking – 4 pieces

6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusing: front band, back neckline facing, side front part, center front part, center back upper part with armhole segment, center back lower part, side back part’s armhole, side back lower part, lower sleeve hem, upper sleeve hem, collar.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, back neckline facing, side front part, center front part, center back upper part with armhole segment, center back lower part, side back part’s armhole, side back lower part, lower sleeve hem, upper sleeve hem, collar.

2. Stitch bust horizontal dart.

3. Stitch the sacking to side/center front part according to notches right sides together. Bend the seam and topstitch it on sacking.

4. Stitch front relieves and sacking. Make notches in relieve seams and press them apart, pressing the pocket.

5. Overstitch edgings with front bands making two turns (one at top and one at bottom). Make slashes and turn edging’s upper and lower corners right side out.

6. Stitch back neckline facing to front bands and press shoulder seams of facing and front bands apart.

7. Stitch back middle seam and back relieves. Press back relieves and middle seam apart.

8. Stitch garment shoulder/side seams. Press shoulder/side seams apart.

9. Lay outer collar on inner one tight sides together and overstitch inner collar with outer one. Slash collar corners and turn them right sides out.

10. Stitch outer collar’s middle seam into front neckline. Press middle seam apart.

11. Stitch vertical dart (continue stitching-in the collar).

12. Stitch inner collar in. Press vertical darts/seam joining the collar apart.

13. Fix collar joining seams.

14. Stitch elbow seam and press it apart.

15. Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart.

16. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.

17. Stitch lining details leaving unstitches segment into right sleeve. Press the lining.

18. Stitch shoulder pads in.

19. Stitch the lining to front bands and back neckline facing, to garment hem, coinciding lining seams to garment seams, to garment sleeves’ hems. Make 7 fixes above seams along garment hem.

20. Turn the garment right side out through sleeve slit. Stitch sleeve slit’s edges.

21. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.