ATTENTION!
All
patterns are with seam allowances.
Please pay
attention to notches in the process in stitching. The notches must coincide!
CUTTING:
1. Flap – 4 pieces
2. Pocket valance
– 2 pieces
3. Pocket facing –
4 pieces
4. Inner collar –
2 pieces
5. Outer collar –
1 folded piece
6. Center back
part – 2 pieces
7. Side back part
– 2 pieces
8. Back neckline
facing – 1 folded piece
9. Side front part
– 2 pieces
10. Front part – 2
pieces
11. Front band – 2
pieces
12. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
13. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
Lining:
14. Sacking – 4
pieces
15. Back part – 1
folded piece
16. Front part – 2
pieces
17. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
18. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
Fusing:
19. Flap – 2
pieces
20. Pocket valance
– 2 pieces
21. Pocket facing
– 4 pieces
22. Inner collar –
2 pieces
23. Outer collar –
1 folded piece
24. Back shoulder
segment – 2 pieces
25. Side back part
reinforcement – 2 pieces
26. Back neckline
facing – 1 folded piece
27. Back hem
allowance – 2 pieces
28. Side back
part’s hem allowance – 2 pieces
29. Side front
part – 2 pieces
31. Front band – 2
pieces
32. Upper sleeve
allowance – 2 pieces
33. Lower sleeve
allowance – 2 pieces
34. Sleeve cap’s
reinforcement – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Front parts:
stitch front relieve seam down to front part corners at pocket entrances. Cut
allowances at middle/side front parts along perpendicular edges (pocket
entrances); make notches in middle front parts’ allowance strictly to the
determinant stitch. Press relieve seams allowances apart. Tack entrances with
crossing stitches coinciding strictly entrance edges.
2. Cut front slit
pockets with flaps “in frames”: stitch together one reinforced and one soft
flaps together along side/lower edges. Stitch along edges. Apply the stripe of
fusing of 4 cm width to wrong side of pocket marking. Lay 2 pocket facings on
front part right sides together, pin them together along pocket entrance
marking and stitch. Lengthwise edges of facings coincides to pocket marking
middle line! Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at
stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Press slit edges in the direction opposite to
entrances. Fold facings into wrong side through the slit so that to make a neat
frame; edges of bendings’ facings coincides to pocket entrance middle! Stitch
along joining seam. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and
topstitch accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Fold
flaps’ open edges between facings and stitch on seams joining upper facings.
Stitch sackings on wrong side of flap joining seams’ allowance and to seams
joining lower facings’ allowance. Adjust sackings, cut them and stitch them.
3. Stitch back
relieve/middle seams.
4. Stitch
shoulder/side seams.
5. Lay front bands
on front parts right sides together and pin them to edgings; stitch edgings to
front bands. Stitch shoulder seam of front band and back neckline facing.
6. Stitch inner
collar’s middle seam, press allowances apart. Process the collar along outer
contour neatly. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline, stitch outer collar
into facing neckline. Press seam allowance apart. Sew pressed apart allowances
of inner collar and back neckline facing from inside.
7. Sew garment
hem.
8. Sew sleeve
seams, leave unstitches vents into elbow seams. Make notches above vent marks
in lower sleeve allowance. Press allowances apart above vents. Sew sleeve hems
under. Press upper sleeves’ vents edges into wrong side. Pin vents, topstitch
vent edges one on another on wrong side. Stitch sleeves into armholes easing
them along sleeve caps.
9. Sew shoulder
pads.
10. Stitch darts
into lining front/back part, stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining
to sleeve hems, front bands’ inner edges and to back neckline facing. Sew the
lining under.
11. Make buttonholes
into right front part, sew buttons on left one.