YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool with synthetic yarns; fusing;
3 buttons; lining.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE:
1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing,
print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to
150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Outer collar
– 1 piece
2. Inner collar
– 1 piece
3. Back part – 1 piece
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Front part – 2 pieces
6. Side front part – 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Front band – 2 pieces
10. Neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Center back part – 1 piece
2. Side back
part – 2 pieces
3. Side front
part – 2 pieces
4. Center front
part – 2 pieces
5. Sacking – 4
pieces
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front band, back neckline facing, side front part, center front part,
upper center back part with segment of armholes, center back part’s hem, armholes of side back part,
side back part’s hem, lower sleeve hem, upper sleeve hem, collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, back neckline facing, side front part, center front part,
upper center back part with segment of armholes, center back part’s hem, armholes of side back part,
side back part’s hem, lower sleeve hem, upper sleeve hem, collar.
2. Lay sacking on side/center front parts right sides
together, according to notches, them stitch. Bend the seam and topstitch on
sacking.
3.
Stitch front relieves and sacking. Slash relieve seams and press them apart
pressing the pocket.
4.
Overstitch edgings with front bands with rounded corners, along upper/lower
edges. Slash them, turn edging upper/lower corners right side out.
5. Stitch back neckline
facing to front bands and press shoulder seams of facing and front band.
6. Stitch relieve/middle
back seams. Press relieve/middle back seams apart.
7. Stitch garment
shoulder/side seams. Press shoulder/side seams apart.
8. Lay outer collar on inner
one right sides together and overstitch inner collar with outer one (with
rounded corners). Slash collar corners and turn them right side out.
9. Stitch outer collar’s
middle seam into front neckline. Press middle seams apart.
10. Stitch vertical dart
(continue stitching-in the collar).
11.
Stitch inner collar in. Press vertical darts/seam joining the collar apart.
12. Fix collar joining
seams.
13.
Stitch elbow seam and press it apart.
14.
Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart.
15.
Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
16. Stitch
lining details leaving unstitches segment into right sleeve. Press the lining.
17. Stitch shoulder pads in.
18. Stitch
the lining to front bands and back neckline facing, to garment hem, coinciding
lining seams to garment seams, to garment sleeves’ hems. Make 7 fixes above
seams along garment hem.
19. Turn
the garment right side out through sleeve slit. Stitch sleeve slit’s edges.
20. Make buttonholes into
right front part, sew buttons on left one.