ATTENTION!
All
patterns are with seam allowances.
Please pay
attention to notches in the process in stitching. The notes must coincide!
CUTTING:
1. Lower pocket
frame – 4 pieces
2. Collar – 2
pieces
3. Upper back part
– 2 pieces
4. Lower back part
– 2 pieces
5. Back neckline
facing – 1 folded piece
6. Upper front
part – 2 pieces
7. Lower front
part – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2
pieces
9. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
Lining:
11. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
12. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
13. Back part – 2
pieces
14. Front part – 2
pieces
15. Upper sacking
– 2 pieces
16. Lower sacking
– 2 pieces
17. Closure facing
– 2 pieces
Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands. Back
neckline facings, front parts.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch
front/back darts, stitch front parts’/back parts’ details together; stitch back
middle seam.
2. Cut front slit
pockets “in frames”: apply the stripe of fusing of 4 cm width to wrong side of
pocket marking. Lay 2 pocket facings on front part, pin them together along
pocket entrance marking and stitch. Lengthwise edges of facings coincides to
pocket marking middle line! Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric
diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Press seam facing allowances
apart. Fold facings into wrong side through the slit to make a neat frame, then
tack. Lay sacking on front part’s wrong side, on lower facing (lay sacking
upward); topstitch lower facing on right side along joining seam catching the
sacking. Press sacking downwards. Fold the allowance of one of valance long
edges and topstitch the valance on another sacking. Lay another sacking on the
pocket on front part’s wrong side and stitch it on right side’s seam joining
upper facing. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch
accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings,
adjust, and stitch them together.
3. Do the same for
closure frame at front band.
4. Stitch
shoulder/side seams.
5. Pin front bands
to front edges right side together, overstitch edgings with front bands. Stitch
shoulder seams of front band and back neckline facing.
6. Process the
collar neatly along outer contour. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline;
stitch outer collar into facing neckline. Press seam allowance apart. Sew
pressed allowance of inner collar joining seams and back neckline facing from
inside.
7. Sew garment hem
under.
8. Sew sleeve
seas. Sew sleeves into garment armholes easing them along sleeve caps.
9. Sew shoulder
pads.
10. Stitch darts
into lining front/back parts, stitch lining details. Stitch lining to sleeve
hems, to font bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Sew the lining.
11. Sew buttons on
left front part.