YOU NEED: gabardine or
wool; lining; 3 buttons
CUTTING:
1. Half-belt – 2 pieces
2. Off-set weft – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Side front part – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
7. Center front part – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
Lining:
9. Upper sacking – 2 pieces
10. Lower sacking – 2 pieces
Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back
neckline facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch neatly the half-belt along long edges, turn
it right side out and press.
2. Sew middle back seam and relieve back seams (insert
the half-belt into relieve seams).
3. Sew front relieve seams.
4. Cut slit pockets with off-set welt into front part:
stitch neatly off-set welts along short edges, turn right side out and press
them. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above
pocket marking). Lay pocket off-set welt and upper sacking on front part right
sides together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges
of off-set welt and sacking must coincide with middle line of pocket marking).
Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through
off-set welts and sacking! Press seam allowances apart. Turn off-set welts and
sacking to wrong side through slit, than tack. Lay lower sacking on off-set
welt on front part wrong side, folding sacking upwards; stitch the off-set welt
on right side along joining seam, catching sacking. Press sacking downward.
Turn small triangles at slit ends to wrong side and topstitch strictly between
upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings and stitch them.
Topstitch the off-set welt on front part along short edges.
5. Sew side seams.
6. Sew shoulder seams of front band and back neckline
facing. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together and pin to front
band edges; overstitch edges with front bands.
7. Sew lining details together. Lay fabric details on
lining details right sides together, stitch them along contour leaving shoulder
seams unstitched. Turn details right side out.
8. Sew main detail shoulder seams. Sew lining shoulder
seams by hand with blind stitches.
9. Topstitch ready garment along edge.
10. Make buttonholes and sew buttons.