ATTENTION!
All
patterns are with seam allowances.
Please pay
attention to notches in the process in stitching. The notches must coincide!
CUTTING:
1. Upper pocket’s
frame – 2 pieces
2. Lower pocket’s
frame – 4 pieces
3. Collar – 2 pieces
4. Back part – 2
pieces
5. Back neckline
facing – 1 folded piece
6. Front part – 2
pieces
7. Front band – 2
pieces
8. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
9. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
Lining:
10. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
11. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
12. Back part – 2
pieces
13. Front part – 2
pieces
14. Upper pocket’s
upper sacking – 2 pieces
15. Upper pocket’s
lower sacking – 2 pieces
16. Lower pocket’s
upper sacking – 2 pieces
17. Lower pocket’s
lower sacking
Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands. Back
neckline facing and front parts.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch
front/back darts, stitch back middle seam.
2. Cut front slit
pockets “in frames”: apply the stripe of fusing of 4 cm width to wrong side of
pocket marking. Lay 2 pocket facings on front part, pin them right sides
together along pocket entrance marking and stitch. Lengthwise edges of facings
coincides to pocket marking middle line! Cut the front part between stitches,
cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Press seam facing
allowances apart. Fold facings into wrong side through the slit to make a neat
frame, then tack. Lay sacking on front part’s wrong side, on lower facing (lay
sacking upward); topstitch lower facing on right side along joining seam
catching the sacking. Press sacking downwards. Fold the allowance of one of
valance long edges and topstitch the valance on another sacking. Lay another
sacking on the pocket on front part’s wrong side and stitch it on right side’s
seam joining upper facing. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side
and topstitch accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut
sackings, adjust, and stitch them together.
3. Stitch
shoulder/side seams.
4. Pin front bands
to front edges right side together, overstitch edgings with front bands. Stitch
shoulder seams of front band and back neckline facing.
5. Process the
collar neatly along outer contour. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline;
stitch outer collar into facing neckline. Press seam allowance apart. Sew pressed
allowance of inner collar joining seams and back neckline facing from inside.
6. Sew garment hem
under.
7. Sew sleeve
seas. Sew sleeves into garment armholes easing them along sleeve caps.
8. Sew shoulder
pads.
9. Stitch darts
into lining front/back parts, stitch lining details. Stitch lining to sleeve
hems, to font bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Sew the lining.
10. Make
buttonholes into right edge, sew buttons on left one.