5019 SHORT COAT

 

YOU NEED: fabric suitable for coats of 150 cm width; lining; fusing; 4 buttons; shoulder pads.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Collar – 2 pieces

2. Center front part – 2 pieces

3. Flap (pocket’s off-set welt) – 4 pieces

4. Center back part – 2 pieces

5. Side back part – 2 pieces

6. Side front part – 2 pieces

7. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

8. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

9. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Lining:

10. Sacking – 4 pieces

11. Center front part – 2 pieces (excluding width of front band)

12. Center back part – 2 pieces

13. Side back part – 2 pieces

14. Side front part – 2 pieces

15. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

16. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, lower edges of off-set welts. Press the fusing additionally to hem allowance.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Process neatly pockets’ off-set welts, topstitch edges at 1 cm distance. Lay off-set welt on center front part in accordance with notches; them lay one of sackings on the welt and topstitch on pocket entrance. Lay another sacking on side front part and topstitch also. Turn sackings into wrong side, stitch front relieves seams under/over pocket entrances. Stitch sackings’ edges together from pocket entrances’ marks (from inside). Press relieve seams’ allowances towards center front parts. Topstitch center front relieve seams at 1 cm distance. Topstitch short edges of off-set welts strictly along decorative stitch on front part.

 

2. Stitch middle center back seam downward vent mark, then press the seam apart. Press allowance towards left back part.

 

3. Stitch back relieves seams together as well as side/shoulder seams, shoulder seams of front bands and back neckline seams.

 

4. Fold one-piece front bands into right side, topstitch bands’ tops on neckline up to the mark. Slash neckline allowance close to the mark, cut diagonally allowances at front corners. Turn front bands into wrong side. Process the collar neatly along outer contour. Stitch one of collar details into neckline right sides together. Stitch collar’s another detail to neckline facing and to front bands. Press seam allowances apart. Press allowances of seams joining inner collar and back neckline facing apart and sew them from inside.

 

5. At the hem: lay front bands forwards. Turn hem allowances into wrong side and sew it. Turn front bands into wrong side.

 

6. Press vents’ left edge into wrong side, sew to hem allowance. Press one-piece facing at vent’s right allowance into wrong side, sew to hem allowance. Pin the vent along coinciding lines. Topstitch left back part at vent’s top along marking catching vent’s edges.

 

7. Stitch sleeve seams. Stitch sleeves into armholes.

 

8. Sew shoulder pads.

 

9. Stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, front bands’ inner edges and to back neckline facing. Pin the lining at vent segment carefully. Cut the lining at vent segment; do not forget about allowances! Fold lining hem under and sew to vent edges. Sew the lining under.

 

10. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.