5020
SHORT COAT
YOU
NEED:
fabric suitable for coats of 150 cm width; lining; fusing; 4 buttons; shoulder
pads.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Collar – 2 pieces
2.
Center front part – 2 pieces
3.
Center
back
part
– 2 pieces
4.
Side
back
part
– 2 pieces
5.
Side
front
part
– 2 pieces
6.
Back
neckline
facing
– 1 folded
piece
7.
Upper
sleeve
– 2 pieces
8.
Lower
sleeve
– 2 pieces
Lining:
9.
Sacking
– 2 pieces
10.
Center
front
part
– 2 pieces
(excluding
front
bands’
width)
11.
Center back part – 2 pieces (excluding widths of back neckline
facing)
12.
Side
back
part
– 2 pieces
13.
Side
front
part
– 2 pieces
14.
Upper
sleeve
– 2 pieces
15.
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, lower edges
of off-set welts. Press the fusing additionally to hem
allowance.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Topstitch sackings on pocket entrances (right sides together) at center front
parts. Slash front parts’ allowance diagonally to front corners. Fold sackings
into wrong side. Topstitch pocket entrances’ edgings up to corners at 1.8 cm
distance. Stitch front relieves above pocket entrances slashing allowances of
center front part diagonally to upper corners. Press relieve seams’ allowances
towards center front parts. Pin pocket entrances on sackings of side front parts
along coinciding lines. Stitch front/lower edges of sackings beginning at pocket
entrance marking (from inside). Tack sackings’ side edges under middle front
parts. Topstitch center front parts along relieve seams to pocket entrances’
stitches at 1.8 cm distance.
2.
Stitch middle seam of center back part down to vent mark, then press it apart.
Press allowances into left back part.
3.
Stitch back relieve seams as well as side/shoulder seams, front bands’ shoulder
seams and back neckline facing.
4.
Fold one-piece front bands into right side, topstitch bands’ tops on neckline up
to the mark. Slash neckline allowance close to the mark, cut diagonally
allowances at front corners. Turn front bands into wrong side. Process the
collar neatly along outer contour. Stitch one of collar details into neckline
right sides together. Stitch collar’s another detail to neckline facing and to
front bands. Press seam allowances apart. Press allowances of seams joining
inner collar and back neckline facing apart and sew them from
inside.
5.
At the hem: lay front bands forwards. Turn hem allowances into wrong side and
sew it. Turn front bands into wrong side.
6.
Press vents’ left edge into wrong side, sew to hem allowance. Press one-piece
facing at vent’s right allowance into wrong side, sew to hem allowance. Pin the
vent along coinciding lines. Topstitch left back part at vent’s top along
marking catching vent’s edges.
7.
Stitch sleeve seams. Stitch sleeves into armholes.
8.
Sew shoulder pads.
9.
Stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, front bands’
inner edges and to back neckline facing. Pin the lining at vent segment
carefully. Cut the lining at vent segment; do not forget about allowances! Fold
lining hem under and sew to vent edges. Sew the lining
under.
10.
Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.