ATTENTION!
ALL
THE PATTERNS ARE WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES. WHEN
SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
1.
Collar – 2 pieces
2.
Sleeve half belt – 4 pieces
3*.
Back part – 1 folded piece
4*.
Back sleeve – 2 pieces
5*.
Font sleeve – 2 pieces
6.
Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
7.
Front band – 2 pieces
8.
Off-set welt – 4 pieces
9*.
Front
part – 2 pieces
Lining:
Front
parts (excluding width of front bands), back part (as one folded detail, with
free-fitting pleat of 2 cm depth, and also excluding neckline facing’s width),
front sleeve (excluding front bands’ width) and back sleeves (secluding neckline
facing’s width).
10.
Upper sacking – 2 pieces
11.
Lower sacking – 2 pieces
LINING
DETAILS ARE MARKED WITH *.
Fusing:
apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, lower parts
of off-set welts. Press fusing additionally to hem
allowance.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Cut slit pockets with off-set welt into front part: stitch neatly off-set welts,
turn right side out and press them. Topstitch edges at 1.5 cm distance. Apply
fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking).
Lay pocket off-set welt and upper sacking on front part right sides together;
pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of off-set welt
and sacking must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part
between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through off-set welts
and sacking! Press seam allowances apart. Turn off-set welts and sacking to
wrong side through slit, than tack. Lay lower sacking on off-set welt on front
part wrong side, folding sacking upwards; stitch the off-set welt on right side
along joining seam, catching sacking. Press sacking downward. Turn small
triangles at slit ends to wrong side and topstitch strictly between upper stitch
ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings and stitch them. Topstitch the off-set
welt on front part along short edges.
2.
Stitch back/front raglan seams, then topstitch at 1.5 cm
distance.
3.
Process sleeve half-belts neatly, turn right side out and press. Topstitch edges
at 1.5 cm distance.
4.
Stitch sleeves’ upper seams inserting sleeve half-belts. Stitch sleeves’ lower
seams and garment’s side seams.
5.
Sew shoulder seams of front band and back neckline facing. Lay front bands and
facing on the garment (right sides together) and process neatly along
edgings.
6.
Overstitch the collar neatly along outer contour. Stitch one collar detail into
neckline right sides together. Stitch another detail to neckline facing and
front bands. Press seams’ allowances apart. Press allowances of seams joining
inner collar and back neckline facing apart and sew them from
inside.
7.
(Lower edge) Lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and
sew it. Fold front bands into wrong side. Topstitch front bands and the collar
at 1.5 cm distance.
8.
Sew shoulder pads.
9.
Sew lining details together. Stitch lining to sleeve hems, front bands’ inner
edges and back neckline facing. Sew the lining under.
10.
Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left
one.