YOU NEED: wool/semiwool
or crepe satin for evening variant, 3 large buttons and 8 small buttons.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Middle front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Middle back part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
6. Collar – 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Front band – 2 pieces
10. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Fusing:
1. Front band – 2 pieces
2. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Middle front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Middle back part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Sacking – 4 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch front relieves and front darts.
2. Cut slit pockets with off-set welt. Stitch
welt’s side edges together. Cut allowances’ corners at 45 degrees. Turn the
welt right side out and press it. Lay the welt and sackings on front part right
sides together (pocket sacking is above, welt and sacking are under), pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch
(lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking).
Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through
off-set welts and sackings! Press seam allowances apart. Turn off-set welts and sackings into wrong side
through, than tack. Turn small triangle at slit front end into wrong side
and stitch topstitch off-set welt’s ends. Fix corners with fixing stitches on
wrong side. Stitch sacking seam
catching allowances’ corners.
3. Stitch back relieves as well as side/shoulder
seams. When stitching side seams, do not catch sacking’s side edges.
4. Make sleeve seam. Turn in the sleeve. Press vent’s
edges. On sleeve wrong side: stitch long/upper short transverse edges of vent’s
one-piece facings and vent allowance. Sew small buttons to the sleeve catching
vent allowance.
5. Stitch sleeves in easing them along sleeve caps.
Sew 4 cm width of the fusing to joining seam allowance at sleeve caps.
6. Overstitch the collar along outer contour and tack
it into the neckline tacking open edges together.
7. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together
and topstitch them on front edgings and lapels up to the point of stitching the
collar in. Slash seam allowances near this point. Stitch back neckline to front
bands’ upper ends. Lay collar’s open edges between the jacket and front bands
with facing (inner collar lays on the jacket.) Stitch outer collar to front
bands’/facings’ neckline. Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline. Make
slashes into roundings. Press seam allowances apart.
Fold front bands and facing into wrong side, press edges. Sew collar joining
seam’s allowances at back neckline (wrong side.)
8. Fold front bands frontward. Fold hem allowances
into wrong side up to front edgings, then sew. Fold
front bands into wrong side again, sew to hem allowance.
9. Stitch seams into lining details. Stitch lining’s
front edges to front bands right sides together: begin and finish stitching 8
cm before lower edge. Pull the lining into the jacket with its wrong side to
jacket’s wrong side. Fold lining’s open edges under and sew to jacket/sleeve
hem allowances. Sew lining’s open front edges to front bands.
10. Make buttonholes into right front edging. Sew
buttons.