YOU NEED: soft fabrics
(viscose, silk sateen, crepe); 4 little buttons.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Front band – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 1 folded piece
4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Hem facing – 1 folded piece
6. Collar – 2 folded pieces
7. Tie – 4 pieces
8. Cuff – 2 pieces
Additionally: 2 pipings for sleeves (16 cm length and 2 cm width).
Fusing:
1. Front band – 2 pieces
2. Collar – 1 folded piece
3. Cuff – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch darts and shoulder seams.
2. Cut sleeves as marked. Process slit edges with the
piping, width is 0.5 cm. Cut the piping diagonally at
slit’s top (sleeve’s wrong side). Stitch sleeves into armholes.
3. Overstitch 2 ties’ long edges. Fold tie’s open end
under. Tack one tie to left front edging between marks. Tack another tie to
right front edge.
4. Cut a braid in 2 equal pieces. Tack one of braids
to left front edging’s right side.
5. Stitch sleeve/side seams with one stitch catching
the tie into left side seam.
6. Stitch inner collar into neckline up to the mark.
Stitch outer collar to front bands. Press seam allowances apart, press
allowances between shoulder seams toward the collar.
7. Fold hem facing as marked right side out, press
along bending line. Stitch outer side to blouse hem, stitch front bands’ lower
edges to facing’s inner long edge. Fold facing’s inner side into front bands’
right side, lay outer collar on the blouse.
8. Stitch front edgings and collar’s outer sides to
the mark catching left tie.
9. Fold front bands and facing’s inner sides into
wrong side; turn the collar right side out. Fold outer collar’s lower edge
under, stitch outer collar to the joining seam. Sew front bands’ upper edges to
shoulder seams’ allowances. Fold open edge of hem facing’s inner side under;
pin the facing to joining seam. Stitch the facing to right side along joining
seam.
10. Make pleats into sleeve hems laying x on o, then
tack them.
11. Fold cuffs along the center, process short edges
neatly. Stitch long edge to sleeve hems’ right side catching the piping of slit
front edge. Fold inner cuff under and stitch to joining seam. Make 2
buttonholes into cuffs at 1 cm from front short edge.
Sew another cord to right side seam’s allowance at
height of left front edge’s cord.
12. Fold front edgings into right side as lapels,
press slightly.