YOU NEED: soft cotton/linen/viscose; 9 buttons.
NB! Before
sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part one-piece with collar – 2 pieces
2. Front band one-piece with collar – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 1 folded piece
4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Cuff – 2 pieces
Additionally: 2 pipings for sleeve slits
(16 cm length and 2 cm width each).
Fusing:
1. Front band one-piece with collar – 2 pieces
2. Cuff – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch front upper darts.
2. Stitch shoulder seams up to the corner (mark).
Slash front shoulder seam allowance up to stitch end (toward the corner).
3. Cut sleeves as marked. Process slit edges with the piping,
width is 0.5 cm. Cut the piping diagonally at slit’s
top (sleeve’s wrong side). Stitch sleeves into armholes. Stitch sleeve/side
seams with one stitch, leave side seams’ lower
segments open for slits.
4. Stitch middle back seam into inner one-piece
collar. Stitch inner collar into back neckline. Lay outer collar and front
bands on inner collar and front parts right sides together, stitch front
edgings and collar’s outer edges together; cut seam allowances into collar
corners diagonally; slash corner allowances between the collar and front edge.
5. Press the hem/slit allowance/front bands’ lower
edges into wrong side.
6. Fold front bands inside, turn the collar right side
out. Fold outer collar’s lower edge under and stitch to joining seam (to do this,
slash left shoulder’s allowances up to the corner).
7. Sew front bands’ upper edges to shoulder seam
allowances, sew lower edges to hem allowance.
8. Topstitch hem allowance and side slits at 0.75 cm.
Topstitch front edgings and the collar along edges.
9. Make pleats into sleeve hems laying x on o, then tack
them.
10. Fold cuffs along the center, process short edges
neatly. Stitch long edge to sleeve hems’ right side catching the piping of slit
front edge. Fold inner cuff under and stitch to joining seam.
11. Make 7 long buttonholes into right front edging, make 2 buttonholes into each cuff at 1 cm from shirt
front edge.
12. Sew
buttons on left front edging so that they were on buttonhole’s top.