5035 BLOUSE WITH BLIND FLY

 

YOU NEED: sheer cotton/linen; decorative braid; 13 small buttons.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Middle front part – 2 pieces

2. Side front part – 2 pieces

3. Middle back part – 1 folded piece

4. Side back part – 2 pieces

5. Sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Collar – 2 folded pieces

7. Cuff – 4 pieces

 

Additionally: 2 pipings for sleeve slits (16 cm length and 2 cm width each).

 

Fusing:

1. Collar – 1 folded piece

2. Cuff – 2 pieces

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Stitch front/back relieves and shoulder seams. Press relieves toward middle parts. Stitch the braid to middle front parts/middle back part at 0.5 cm from relieves.

 

2. Cut sleeves as marked. Process slit edges with the piping, width is 0.5 cm. Cut the piping diagonally at slit’s top (sleeve’s wrong side). Stitch sleeves into armholes. Stitch sleeve/side seams with one stitch.

 

3. Press right placket one-piece facing for blind fly into wrong side, then press closure facing/placket into wrong side. Stitch the facing as marked. Stitch the braid on right front part at 0.5 cm from front edge. Fold closure placket up to front edge and press it.

 

4. Press left front one-piece into wrong side and fold it double. Topstitch front edging’s inner side along edge. Press hem allowance into wrong side and topstitch.

 

5. Cut a bias stripe for 5 loops and make narrow roll of it. Cut the roll into 5 equal pieces.

 

6. Topstitch a braid on outer collar at 0.5 cm, from outer edge. Make a loop of one of rolls and tack it to outer collar’s right edge with the loops toward the collar. Process collars along outer edges neatly. Stitch outer collar into the neckline. Fold inner collar under and pin it to joining seam.

 

7. Topstitch the collar to right side along joining seam.

 

8. Make pleats into sleeve hems laying x on o, then tack them.

 

9. Topstitch the braid on outer cuffs at 0.5 cm from marking along short rounded and long outer edges. Tack two loops to each short rounded edge with loops toward cuffs.

 

10. Overstitch 2 cuffs neatly along outer edges. Stitch outer cuff to sleeve hem’s right side catching slit’s front edge trimming folded into wrong side. Fold inner cuff under and stitch it to joining seam.

 

11. Make buttonholes into closure blind placket. Sew flap buttons to left front part so that buttons were at buttonholes’ tops. Sew buttons of loop’s colour to the collar and the cuffs.