YOU NEED: wool/artificial
leather; fusing; lining; 1 long separable zipper and 4 short zippers.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Middle front part
– 2 pieces
2. Side front part –
2 pieces
3. Middle back part –
2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2
pieces
5. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
6. Upper sleeve – 2
pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
Fusing:
1. Front band – 2 pieces
2. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Sacking – 4 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch front relieves and darts.
2. Lay sacking on front part right sides together
along marked pocket entrance line, then stitch as marked. Cut front part
between stitches diagonally toward stitches’ beginning. Do not cat through
seams! Press seam allowances apart. Fold sackings into wrong side trough the
slit rounding seam allowances, then tack. Fold small triangles at slit ends
into wrong side. Lay the zipper into pocket slit and tack. Make decorative
stitch along frame edge at 0.5 cm stitching the zipper at the same time. Stitch sacking seam catching allowance’s corners.
3. Stitch back relieves/side/shoulder seams. When
stitching side seams, do not catch sacking’s side edges.
4. Stitch sleeve seams. Leave a slit of zipper length
into outside sleeve seam. Insert the zipper into sleeve seam (wrong side), then
tack. Make decorative stitch along slit edge at 0.5 cm distance stitching the
zipper. Turn in the sleeve.
5. Stitch sleeves in easing them along sleeve caps.
6. Stitch neckline facing to front bands’ upper
edges. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together, insert the zipper
with its teeth inside, overstitch front endings/necklines with front bands and facings.
Fold front bands/facings into wrong side, press edges.
7. Stitch lining details together. Stitch
lining front edges to front bands right sides together; begin/finish the seam 8
cm before lower edge. Pull the lining into the jacket wrong sides together.
Fold lining open edges under and sew to fabric jacket/sleeve hems. Sew lining’ s front open edges to front bands.