YOU NEED: wool/semiwool; lining; fusing; 8 buttons.
NB! Before
sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Middle front part
– 2 pieces
2. Front band – 2
pieces
3. Side front part –
2 pieces
4. Middle back part –
2 pieces
5. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
6. Side back part – 2
pieces
7. Flap – 4 pieces
Lining:
1. Middle front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Middle back part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. sacking – 4 pieces
Fusing:
1. Front band – 2 pieces
2. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Additionally: apply the fusing to wrong side of 4 pocket facings (17 cm length and
3.5 cm width each).
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of pocket entrances.
2. Stitch darts and front relieves.
3. Cut slit pockets with two facings and
flaps into front part: lay facings right sides together and topstitch them
along joining lines. Cut front part between stitches (stop before ends),
diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press seam allowances
apart. Turn facings to wrong side through slit to make a neat frame. Topstitch
facing on wrong side along joining seams. Turn small triangle at slit ends into
wrong side and stitch on facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch
ends. Lay one soft and one reinforced flaps right sides together and overstitch
neatly along outer sides. Turn the flap right sides out, press edges. Set the
flap into the pocket on right side, pin the flap under upper facing and
topstitch flap on the facing on wrong side. Stitch lining sacking to lower
facing, stitch fabric sacking to upper facing. Adjust sackings to make their
equal, then stitch.
4. Stitch middle back seam, back relieves, side/shoulder
seams.
5. Stitch middle back seam. Stitch front bands to
lining front parts; stitch back neckline facing to lining back part. Stitch darts, stitch other seams leaving one of side seams unstitch
at 20 cm for turning the waistcoat right side out.
6. Sew the lining/front bands to the waistcoat right
sides together.
7. Stitch front edgings up to the seam joining front
bands as well as neckline edges.
8. Stitch lining lower edge to hem allowance.
9. Make several slashes into rounded seam allowances.
Turn the garment right side out. Sew hem allowance to seam allowances.
10. Pull armholes into right side through the hole
into the lining, then stitch right sides inside.
11. Sew lining hole’s edges
together.
12. Make 8 buttonholes into right front edging. Press
edges.