5046 RAINCOAT

 

YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats of 150 m width; lining; fusing; 6 large buttons.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Back part – 2 pieces

3. Collar – 2 folded pieces

4. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces

5. Sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Front band – 2 pieces

7. Pocket – 4 pieces

8. Stripe for 6 belt loops of 55 cm length and 3 cm width (1.5 cm as ready)

 

Lining:

9. Front part – 2 pieces

10. Back part – 2 pieces

11. Sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Fusing:

12. Collar – 1 folded piece

13. Stand-up collar – 1 folded piece

14. Front band – 2 pieces

15. Pocket – 2 pieces

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Stitch front yokes to front parts and topstitch them close to seams and at 1 cm distance. Stitch middle back seam, stitch left back piece along the seam. Stitch side/shoulder seams, topstitch front yokes and front parts along seams.

 

2. Stitch front bands to edgings and lapels up to transverse mark and stay it laying on front parts. Cut seam allowances close to stitch. Stitch stand-up details to collar details; topstitch each detail along both sides of the seam close to it. Process the collar neatly along outer contour easing outer collar little. Insert the collar between front parts and front bands. Stitch inner collar with stand-up one into garment’s neckline; stitch outer collar with stand-up one into front band’s necklines. Slash allowances of seams joining outer/inner collar twice or more, then press seams apart. Fold front bands into wrong side. Pin joining seams precisely and sew allowances from garment’s wrong side. Lay outer collar flat at the back part above the seam joining inner collar into back neckline and topstitch strictly on the seam on right side.

 

3. Fold hem allowance into wrong side up to front bands and topstitch at 3 cm distance. Topstitch the raincoat along edgings, lapels and collar’s outer contour close to edge and at 1 cm distance.

 

4. Process pockets neatly along the contour. Topstitch each pocket’s flap above folding line. Topstitch pockets on front parts along coinciding lines. Press flaps downwards.

 

5. Process neatly a stripe for belt loops and topstitch it along the edge. Cut the stripe in 6 equal pieces and topstitch belt loops on side seams and on sleeves.

 

6. Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeves’ hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch.

 

7. Stitch sleeves in. Topstitch the garment close to seams joining sleeves. Sew shoulder pads.

 

8. Stitch lining details together leaving shoulder edges of back part projecting near neckline. Stitch sleeves in. Stitch the lining to front bands leaving open segments of about 10 cm length into lower edge. Sew the lining to front bands and stand-up collar. Insert each lining sleeve into fabric one, fold them under at the same place and pin to sleeve hems. Pull sleeves out through open segment into lower edges (between the garment and the lining). Stitch lining sleeves to garment sleeves’ hems. Fold the lining under and topstitch so that it was 1 cm shorter than the garment. Stitch edges of open segments near front bands. Sew front bands to hem allowance.

 

9. Process sleeve half-belts neatly making one end of each half-belt diagonal. Topstitch half-belts.

 

10. Make 3 buttonholes into right front part, make upper buttonhole for an under-button into left front part, make 2 buttonholes into sharp ends of each sleeve half-belt (one after another). Sew buttons accordingly.