5047 COATDRESS

YOU NEED: wool/semiwool (+satin for lapels and the collar for evening variant); 8 large buttons and 6 small buttons; lining; fusing.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Middle front part – 2 pieces

2. Side front part – 2 pieces

3. Back part – 2 pieces

4. Collar – 2 pieces

5. Sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Front band – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Back part – 2 pieces

3. Sacking – 2 pieces

Fusing:

1. Front band – 2 pieces

2. Collar – 1 piece

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stitch the sacking on middle front part right sides together between pocket entrance markings. Slash middle front part’s seam allowance up to stitches’ ends. Fold the sacking into wrong side, press pocket entrance. Slash allowance near the dart and make transverse seam into front parts. Stitch sackings together on wrong side. Stitch front relieve and stitch little dart with the same seam.

2. Stitch middle back seam, stitch darts, stitch side/shoulder seams.

3. Stitch darts/middle back seam/side seams into lining details.

4. Stitch front bands to lining front part. Stitch shoulder seams.

5. Stitch inner collar into neckline up to the mark; stitch outer collar to front bands/lining: to do it, slash allowances to neckline corner. Press seam allowances apart. Lay outer collar and front band on the garment right sides together. Stitch front edgings/lapels/collar’s outer sides up to the marking. Turn the collar right side out, fold front edges into wrong side. Stitch collar joining seam’s allowance between shoulder seams from inside.

6. Tack the lining to armholes. Turn in the dress and the lining.

7. Sew front bands to hem allowance.

8. Stitch sleeve darts. Stitch sleeve seams. Turn sleeves in and stitch them into armholes catching the lining.

9. Make 4 buttonholes into right front edging. Make upper buttonhole into left front edging to inner flat button. Sew buttons on both front edgings and on sleeves. When sewing upper button to right front edging, catch flat button from wrong side; catch the dart on sleeves when sewing buttons.

10. Fold lapels as marked into right side, press bending line a little.