YOU NEED: wool/semiwool;
fusing; lining; 8 large buttons and 6 small buttons.
NB! Before
sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 1 folded piece
3. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Upper flap – 4 pieces
8. Lower flap – 4 pieces
Additionally: 2 pipings
for pockets (18 cm length and 3 cm width including allowances).
Fusing:
1. Front band – 2 pieces
2. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
3. Upper flap – 2 pieces
4. Lower flap – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 1 folded piece
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Upper sacking – 4 pieces
6. Lower sacking – 4 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch all darts. Press front darts’
allowances apart, press back darts’ depths sidewise.
2. Overstitch upper/lower flaps neatly along
side/lower edges. Make buttonholes into flaps for small buttons.
3.
Cut slit pockets with facings and flaps into front part: lay facings right
sides together and topstitch them along joining lines. Cut front part between
stitches (stop before ends), diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing!
Press seam allowances apart. Turn facings to wrong side through slit to make a
neat frame. Topstitch facing on wrong side along joining seams. Turn small
triangle at slit ends into wrong side and stitch on facings between upper
stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Lay one soft and one reinforced flaps right
sides together and overstitch neatly along outer sides. Turn the flap right
sides out, press edges. Set the flap into the pocket on right side, pin the
flap under upper facing and topstitch flap on the facing on wrong side. Stitch
lining sacking to lower facing, stitch fabric sacking to upper facing. Adjust
sackings to make their equal, then stitch.
4.
Stitch small flaps to front parts as marked, then press downward.
5.
Stitch back neckline facing to front bands. Pin front bands and the facing to
the jacket right sides together, then process front parts’ hem/front edgings
/neckline. Press edges. Press hem allowance into wrong side and sew by hand.
Sew front bands to the hem.
6. Make sleeve seam. Turn in the sleeve. Press vent’s
edges. On sleeve wrong side: stitch long/upper short transverse edges of vent’s
one-piece facings and vent allowance. Sew small buttons to the sleeve catching
vent allowance.
7. Stitch sleeves in easing them along sleeve caps.
Sew 4 cm width of the fusing to joining seam allowance at sleeve caps.
8. Sew the lining to the jacket.
Tack free-fit pleat into back lining, press pleats’ depth sidewise. Stitch
darts/seams into lining details. Pin the lining to the jacket right sides
together and stitch to front bands’/facings’ inner edges. leaving open
segments of about 10 cm length into lower edge. Lay the lining on the jacket wrong sides
together. Turn the lining right side out, pull slightly up for free fitting,
then stitch. Sew open edges of lining seams (near front bands). Sew lining
sleeves to jacket sleeves’ hems with free-fit pleat (see above).
9. Make large buttonholes into right front edging, sew large buttons to left right edging. Sew small
buttons on front parts correspondingly to flap buttonholes.