YOU NEED: wool/semiwool or crepe-satin for evening variant; sateen for
trimming; fusing; 3 buttons.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Middle front part – 2 pieces
2. Side upper front part – 2 pieces
3. Side lower front part – 2 pieces
4. Middle back part – 2 pieces
5. Side back part – 2 pieces
6.
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7.
Inner collar – 1 piece
8.
Outer collar – 1 piece
9.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10.
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
11.
Sacking – 2 pieces
12.
Front band – 2 pieces
13.
Inner cuff – 2 pieces
14.
Outer cuff – 2 pieces
Trimming:
1.
Outer collar – 1 piece
2.
Outer cuff – 2 pieces
3.
Pocket – 4 pieces
Fusing:
1.
Front band – 2 pieces
2.
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
3.
Inner collar – 1 piece
4.
Inner cuff – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Stitch front relieves.
2. Cut slit “frame” pockets. Lay two pocket facings on front part right sides
together; pin along pocket entrance marking and
stitch along marked lines (lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with
middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at
stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press seam allowances apart. Turn
facings to wrong side through slit rounding seam allowances, then tack.
Topstitch along facing joining seams. Turn small triangle at slit front end
into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and
lower stitch ends. Join facing’s bendings with velvet
seam. Stitch lining sacking on wrong side to allowances of seams joining lower
facing, stitch fabric sacking to allowances of seam joining upper facing. Press
sackings downward, cut sackings, adjust them and stitch them together.
3. Stitch back relieves as well as side/shoulder
seams. When stitching seams, do not catch sackings’ side
edges.
4. Stitch
sleeve seams. Stitch cuff facings to outer cuff. Stitch cuffs’ side seams,
overstitch outer cuff with inner one, turn details right side out, then press.
Lay cuffs’ right side on sleeves’ wrong side. Stitch cuff lower edge to sleeve
hem. Turn the cuff right side out.
5. Stitch sleeves in easing them along sleeve caps.
Sew 4 cm width of the fusing to joining seam allowance at sleeve caps.
6. Stitch the collar
and the facing. Overstitch the collar along outer contour and tack it into the
neckline tacking open edges together.
7. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together
and topstitch them on front edgings and lapels up to the point of stitching the
collar in. Slash seam allowances near this point. Stitch back neckline to front
bands’ upper ends. Lay collar’s open edges between the jacket and front bands
with facing (inner collar lays on the jacket.) Stitch outer collar to front
bands’/facings’ neckline. Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline. Make
slashes into roundings. Press seam allowances apart.
Fold front bands and facing into wrong side, press edges. Sew collar joining
seam’s allowances at back neckline (wrong side.)
8. Fold front bands frontward. Fold hem allowances
into wrong side up to front edgings, then sew. Fold
front bands into wrong side again, sew to hem allowance.
9. Turn in
the jacket. Sew front bands to jacket hem.
10.
Sew shoulder pads to sleeve joining seams’ allowances and to shoulder seams’
allowances.
11. Make 3
buttonholes into right front edging. Sew buttons.