5051
FOLK-STYLE JACKET
YOU
NEED:
thick wool fabric or fabric suitable for coats of 150 cm width; knitwear braid
for trimming (can be of contrast colour); lining; fusing; 4
buttons.
ATTENTION!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Front part – 2 pieces
2.
Back
part – 1 folded piece
3.
Collar – 2 pieces
4.
Upper
sleeve
– 2 pieces
5.
Lower
sleeve
– 2 pieces
6.
Front
band
– 2 pieces
7.
Pocket – 2 pieces
Lining:
8.
Front part – 2 pieces
9.
Back part – 1 folded piece
10.
Upper
sleeve
– 2 pieces
11.
Lower
sleeve
– 2 pieces
12.
Pocket – 2 pieces
Fusing:
13.
Collar
– 1 piece
14.
Front
band
–
2 pieces
15.
Pocket – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Make 4 buttonloops at right outer front part. Make 1 buttonloop at right inner
front part: cut 10 stripes of 5 cm length each from trimming braid, then press
them along the center. Stitch 2 facings on right side at 0.75 cm from notch mark
along upper/lower lines so that facings’ open edges meet exactly at loop’s
center. Cut front part between stitches stopping before ends, slash it
diagonally at stitches’ ends; do not harm facings. Make even frame of facings
and press it. Turn facings’ ends and small triangles into wrong side. Tack folds
of facings together. Topstitch small triangles on facings on wrong
side.
2.
Stitch
darts.
Stitch
shoulder seams into outer/inner details.
3.
Stitch sleeve hems’ facings to lining sleeves. Stitch fabric sleeves into
armholes, stitch lining sleeves into inner details’ armholes. Stitch sleeve
seams and side seams with one stitch leaving slits into sides for
vents.
4.
Stitch one of collar details into neckline of outer jacket (up to the mark);
stitch another collar detail into inner jacket’s neckline (to do this, slash
front part’s allowance to cut-out’s corner). Press allowances of seam joining
the collar apart.
5.
Cut one-piece allowances of pocket entrances along marks. Trim pockets’ upper
edge with braid. Press pocket’s other allowances into wrong side.
Pin
pockets
on
front
parts
and
topstitch
along
edges.
6.
Sew
shoulder
pads.
7.
Lay the lining to the garment wrong sides together. Sew the lining above
armholes to shoulder pads, sew the lining below armholes to side seams’
allowances.
8.
Stitch edgings, collar, garment’s hem and sleeve hems 0.5 cm above marked
lines.
9.
Cut seam allowances along marked lines. Trim edges with braid. Tack both fabric
layers round loops. Cut fabric under loops (excluding a loop on the lapel) along
each loop’s center, diagonally to ends of facings’ seams. Fold slit edges into
wrong side and sew it to facings.
10.
Sew
buttons
on
left
front
part,
sew
one
button
on
right
lapel’s
loop.