YOU NEED: soft wool or fabrics suitable for
costumes; 6 buttons.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Front band – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Upper back part – 1 folded piece
5. Lower back part – 1 folded piece
6. Collar – 2 folded pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Sleeve facing – 2 pieces
10. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
Fusing:
1. Front band – 2 pieces
2. Collar – 2 folded pieces
3. Sleeve facing – 2 pieces
4. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
Lining:
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper back part – 1 folded piece
4. Lower back part – 1 folded piece
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch lower/upper front darts. Stitch lower/upper
back darts.
2. Stitch side front parts to center front parts.
3. Stitch lower back part to upper back part.
4. Stitch side/shoulder seams.
5. Overstitch the collar neatly along outer contour.
6. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together
and topstitch them on front edgings and lapels up to the point of stitching the
collar in. Slash seam allowances near this point. Stitch back neckline to front
bands’ upper ends. Lay collar’s open edges between the jacket and front bands
with facing (inner collar lays on the jacket.) Stitch outer collar to front
bands’/facings’ neckline. Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline. Make
slashes into roundings. Press seam allowances apart.
Fold front bands and facing into wrong side, press edges. Sew collar joining
seam’s allowances at back neckline (wrong side.)
7. Fold front bands frontward. Fold hem allowances
into wrong side up to front edgings, then sew. Fold
front bands into wrong side again, sew to hem allowance.
8. Stitch sleeve seams. Stitch sleeve facing seams.
Overstitch sleeve hem with sleeve facing. Slash allowances and press them into
right side. Stitch sleeves into jacket’s armholes. Sew shoulder pads.
9. Stitch seams into lining details. Stitch lining’s
front edges to front bands right sides together: begin and finish stitching 8
cm before lower edge. Pull the lining into the jacket with its wrong side to
jacket’s wrong side. Fold lining’s open edges under and sew to jacket/sleeve
hem allowances. Sew lining’s open front edges to front bands.
10. Make buttonholes into right front edging. Sew
buttons.