YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool; zipper (length depends
on your size); 1 button.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Front sacking – 2 pieces
4. Back pocket – 2 pieces
5. Waistband – 1 piece
Additionally: 4 facings of 20 cm
length and 3.5 cm width for pocket entrances.
Fusing:
6. Waistband – 1 piece
Lining:
7. Front sacking – 2 pieces
instructions:
1. Stitch darts, press pleats into front/back part.
2. Press reinforcement stripes to wrong side of pocket entrances.
Make slit pockets into front parts: press facings along the center and
topstitch them along joining lines at 0.5 cm from slits. Cut details between
stitches (stop cutting before ends), cutting stitch ends diagonally. Be careful
with facings and sackings when cutting! Turn facings into wrong side, turn them
round edges to make neat frames. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong
side, then topstitch on facings between ends of stitches. Stitch lining sacking
to front facings’ allowance, stitch fabric sacking to side facings’ allowance.
Stitch sackings together, then tack them to upper/side edges of front parts.
3. Stitch middle front seam below slit mark. Stitch
middle back seam.
4. Press closure’s right one-piece facing and slit’s left
edge into wrong side. Tack zipper’s braid to slit left edge, with its teeth
close to bending. Fold slit allowance along the center and process neatly one
of short edges (= closure allowance). Neaten open lengthwise edges together.
Tack slit allowance under slit’s left edge so that it projected by 3 cm.
Topstitch closure’s left edge along the edge catching zipper braid and slit
allowance. Pin slit edges together. Stitch zipper’s free braid to right facing.
Do not catch garment right part’s fabric! Topstitch right part along marks
catching facing and slit allowance (at lower part).
5. Stitch side/inside leg seams.
6. Stitch back seam; stitch one of waistband’s
lengthwise edges to garment’s upper part (right side); stitch closure’s
allowance to upper part of slit allowance. Fold the waistband along the center
and stitch along short edges. Press half of waistband into wrong side, fold
lower edge under and pin it to joining seam. For coulisse: topstitch the
waistband along both edges of joining seam between darts. Cut elastic braid
into 2 pieces; insert pieces into the coulisse and stitch to waistband
continuing each dart’s line. The distance between darts must now be
19,5/20,5/21,5/23/ 24,5/26 cm. Stitch open lower edge along joining seam.
Topstitch the waistband along coulisses’ centers between crosswise stitches,
stretching elastic braids. Make a buttonhole at 1 cm from waistband’s short
edge.
7. Press one-piece facings of pocket upper edges into
wrong side, fold it under and topstitch at 1.5 cm distance. Pin pockets to back
parts and topstitch along edges.
8. Sew hems.