YOU NEED: wool/semiwool;
3 large and 6 small buttons.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Middle front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Middle back part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
6. Collar – 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Front band – 2 pieces
10. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
Fusing:
1. Front band – 2 pieces
2. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
Lining:
1. Middle front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Middle back part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Sacking – 4 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch front relieves.
2. Cut slit
“frame” pockets: Lay two bias pocket facings on front part right sides
together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of
facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part
between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press
seam allowance flat. Turn facings to wrong side through slit to make a neat
frame, than tack. Topstitch along joining seams. Turn small triangle at slit
front end into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch
ends and lower stitch ends. Join facing’s bendings
with velvet seam. Stitch lining sacking on wrong side to allowances of seams
joining lower facing, stitch fabric sacking to allowances of seam joining upper
facing. Press sackings downward, cut sackings, adjust them and stitch them
together.
3. Stitch back relieves as well as side/shoulder
seams. When stitching side seams, do not catch sacking’s side edges.
4. Make sleeve seam. Turn in the sleeve. Press vent’s
edges. On sleeve wrong side: stitch long/upper short transverse edges of vent’s
one-piece facings and vent allowance. Sew small buttons to the sleeve catching
vent allowance.
5. Stitch sleeves in easing them along sleeve caps.
Sew 4 cm width of the fusing to joining seam allowance at sleeve caps.
6. Overstitch the collar along outer contour and tack
it into the neckline tacking open edges together.
7. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together
and topstitch them on front edgings and lapels up to the point of stitching the
collar in. Slash seam allowances near this point. Stitch back neckline to front
bands’ upper ends. Lay collar’s open edges between the jacket and front bands
with facing (inner collar lays on the jacket.) Stitch outer collar to front
bands’/facings’ neckline. Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline. Make
slashes into roundings. Press seam allowances apart.
Fold front bands and facing into wrong side, press edges. Sew collar joining
seam’s allowances at back neckline (wrong side.)
8. Fold front bands frontward. Fold hem allowances
into wrong side up to front edgings, then sew. Fold
front bands into wrong side again, sew to hem allowance.
9. Stitch seams into lining details. Stitch lining’s
front edges to front bands right sides together: begin and finish stitching 8
cm before lower edge. Pull the lining into the jacket with its wrong side to
jacket’s wrong side. Fold lining’s open edges under and sew to jacket/sleeve
hem allowances. Sew lining’s open front edges to front bands.
10. Make buttonholes into right front edging. Sew
buttons.